Above: The Craig Special + Push Press is MTI’s favorite Total Body Strength exercise.

By Rob Shaul

Here’s the Quick List. Explanations follow:

→ Total Body Strength

1. Craig Special + Push Press
2. Power Clean + Push Press
3. Mutant Maker

→ Lower Body Press

1. Front Squat
2. Leg Blaster
3. Back Squat

→ Lower Body Pull

1. Walking Lunge
2. Hinge Lift
3. Box Squat

→ Upper Body Press

1. Push Press
2. Bench Press
3. Kettlebell Floor Press

→ Upper Body Pull

1. Rope Climb
2. Pull Up
3. Lee Special

Total Body Strength

I define a “total body” strength exercise as one which includes a significant level change and/or has an Olympic lifting power element.

Do you suck at Oly lifting? No matter … I’ve found the exercises below to be great strength builders no matter the athlete’s Oly lifting proficiency. Technical ability allows athletes to lift more weight, but everyone increases strength doing these exercises. Athletes with poor technical ability just don’t need to load on as much weight to increase their individual strength.

How? Take my long-time lab rat, Cody, as an example. Cody has been training with me for 4+ years, and simply cannot figure out how to do the clean movement, no matter how much I coach him. Yet, his nickname in the gym is “Cock Strong.”

Younger, smaller, more athletic lab rats will rep power cleans at 225# with perfect form and crisp movement.

Cody’s “power clean” is really a deadlift + a reverse curl. He reps 185#.  You try reverse curling 185# …..

Here are my top 3 Total Body Strength Exercises:

(1) Craig Special + Push Press
Hang Squat Clean + Front Squat + Pause at the top then + Push Press

The Craig Special + Push Press combines many of the great elements I like to see in a total body exercise:

• Trains the ability of the athlete to take “impact” via the “catch” of the hang squat clean
• Includes two simple, non-complicated strength elements with the front squats and the push press
• Includes a significant level change – with the push press to the load overhead
• There is a significant Mountain/Tactical Chassis demand – think midsection strength.

After a good warm up, complete 9 rounds of 2 reps of this exercise – working up rapidly until 2x is “hard but doable.” Aim to be at that load by round 4 or 5 and get in a good stretch between rounds.

(2) Power Clean + Push Press
About 12 years ago I spent a week shadowing Dan John when he was still a High School strength and conditioning coach in Salt Lake. Dan had a simple formula for getting strong. “Take something heavy off the ground and put it overhead.” This is the definition of the Power Clean + Push Press.

Note that I don’t choose the Push Jerk. Why? The push press is harder, plus I personally have never been able to do a “jerk.”

(3) Mutant Maker
Hang Squat Clean into a Thruster. Another, great, total body exercise which will get athletes strong no matter their technical lifting form and ability. this is just simple, hard, work.

Lower Body Press

(1) Front Squat
Most efficient, effective quad strength training exercise I’ve found. The front squat also has an incredible core strength demand and is safe compared to the back squat … if the athlete fails he/she can simply “dump” the barbell forward to escape.

One issue with this exercise is many men, especially guys in their 30-40s, have wrist flexibility issues and can’t get the barbell in the “rack” position. These athletes can try our 2-Finger Front Squat Technique, or simply use the body-building crossed arms technique to hold the barbell.

(2) Leg Blaster
I believe in the Leg Blaster’s ability to build leg strength so strongly that during the current “Geek Cycle” we’re running with our Tactical Lab Rats, we’re actually running a mini-study comparing the leg-strength building abilities of Leg Blasters to the Front Squat.

The power of this complex of bodyweight leg strength exercises is its ability to train eccentric leg strength. Leg Blasters have been a go-to exercise for years at MTI to train skiers for skiing, alpinists for downhill hiking, and soldiers with Afghanistan deployment orders for the demands of mountainous patrols.

I recall an email I received from a MARSOC Marine about 8 years who was using our Afghanistan Pre-Deployment Training Plan to train his team for an upcoming deployment. Being the high-achieving SOF guy he was, he decided not to follow the leg blaster progression in the plan and skipped ahead to the last week – and completed 5x Full Leg Blasters with a short rest between.

“I could barely walk for a week,” he wrote. Be careful with these.

(3) Back Squat
A few years ago I rarely programmed in back squats – favoring front squats instead. What changed was our experimentation and development of our Super Squat strength training progression. Super Squats deploys back squats, and we simply saw incredible strength gains from this exercise and the super squat progression.

Many coaches consider back squats a total body strength exercise and it’s hard to argue with them. There is a reason the back squat is a staple in college strength programs nation-wide. It is a classic, powerful lower body strength building exercise which hammers the quads, butt, and hips.

Lower Body Pull

(1) Walking Lunge – Loaded
The older I get and the longer I coach the more I love the simple, loaded walking lunge.

Reason #1: No learning curve. Grab a pair of dumbbells/kettlebells and start walking, tapping your own knee to the floor each rep. Step through … don’t stop in the middle.

Reason #2: Trains quads and butt/hamstrings at the same time … during the exercise athletes feel their quads. The next day they feel their butt and hamstrings. It’s the best 2-for-1 lower body exercise I’ve found.

Reason #3: Anything heavy will work. No dumbbells? … use a barbell. No gym? Use a sandbag? No sandbag? Pick up a heavy rock …. you get the idea.

After a good warm up, complete 8 rounds of 3 reps of this exercise (3x = 3x steps each leg, 6x total). Again – work up on load rapidly and aim to be at your “hard but doable” load by round 4 or 5. Your butt will not like you in the morning.

The butt/hamstring soreness is why I consider the walking lunge a lower body “pull” exercise.

(2) Hinge Lift
Our version of the dead lift. Great hamstring/butt work.

(3) Box Squat
I’m not sure why, but I’ve found the box squat really trains the hips and butt – more so than the similar back squat.

Chose a box height which gets the athlete’s thighs to parallel or slightly below, and be sure to sit on the box and unload the legs – don’t touch and go. This unloading and subsequent firing really engage the hips.

Upper Body Push

(1) Push Press
As an old (49) meathead and gym rat, it pains me to put the Push Press ahead of my beloved Bench Press in this list. Not only do I love bench pressing, but I absolutely suck at push presses.

But …. I believe the Push Press is the most functional and transferable upper body push strength exercise for mountain and tactical athletes. Transferable = what will best transfer to the type of upper body pressing these athletes will do in the “real” world.

(2) Bench Press
Whenever the young tactical lab rats in the gym consistently beat me in some lower body strength lift or work capacity event, I strategically program in bench presses for the next training session. The old lab rats in the gym, specifically James and me, love to bench with the young guys.

Nothing makes my day like crushing some young man, 20+ years younger than me by 50# in the bench press. Nothing.

THESE are my “Super Secret” bench press secrets. Do not share this link!

(3) Kettlebell Floor Press
Single-limb upper body push exercise which also has a significant core strength element. Awesome exercise. Can be completed with either dumbbells or kettlebells.

Upper Body Pull

(1) Rope Climb
My original lab rat, Josh, called the rope climb the “sled push for the upper body” – and it’s my favorite pulling movement – even when using the feet. I find the rope climb more functional/transferable than the traditional pull up for mountain and tactical athletes. Plus it’s a 3-for-one exercise …. pulling strength, grip strength, mid-section strength, and when loaded (weight vest or IBA) all of the above plus leg work.

The Rope Climb is not only a great upper body pulling exercise – it is a great total body exercise. MTI’s Rope Climbing Technique

(2) Pull Up
We do ours “strict” – no kipping/bucking or chicken-necking. Full elbow extension to chin above the bar. Tactical athletes should train unloaded and with weight – 25-45 pounds.

(3) Lee Special
Another exercise I suck at, the Lee Special is a great single-limb pulling exercise with a significant midsection strength component. Great training!

Questions, Comments, Feedback?  Email coach@mtntactical.com

Want More? Read  MTI’s Eight Different Strength Progressions

Military
How U.S., South Korean Special Ops Would Join Forces in a New Korean War, Cipher Brief
Qatar Crisis And The Fight Against Terrorism, Small Wars Journal
US shoots down another Iranian UAV over Syria, Long war Journal
Multi-Domain Battle: Airland Battle, Once More, With Feeling, War on the Rocks
How could this happen? The Fitzgerald, the U.S. Navy, and Collisions at Sea, War on the Rocks
How NATO endures in the twenty-first century, Modern Warfare Institute

Homeland Security/Terrorism
Applying the Economic, Homeland and National Security Analysis Framework, Homeland Security Affairs
Cognitive Defense: Influencing the Target Choices of Less Sophisticated Threat Actors, Homeland Security Affairs
Colombia: Bombing At Mall Kills 3, Including French Woman, InHomelandSecurity
Homeland Security Market Analysis By Type (Aviation, Maritime, Border, Critical Infrastructure, Cyber, CBRN and Mass Transit) And Segment Forecasts To 2024, Grand View Research
Terror in London seems to confirm Muslims’ growing dread, Washington Post

First Responder
Grenfell Tower: Hero firefighter shares powerful personal account of London tragedy, news.com.au
5 ways the GI Bill can help you earn a job as a firefighter, Fire Chief
London fire harbinger of looming challenge for fire departments, Fire Chief
Decision Fatigue and Why It Should Be Understood by Law Enforcement Leadership, Police Chief
Designing the Future of Wildfire Modeling, Wildfire Magazine

Mountain
Bowhunting Hacks, Bowhunting.com
Land in the Sky: Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Mountain Gazette
Found: Skiing’s Soul, Powder
American Katie Bono Gets a Denali Speed Record, Gripped
Stian Hagen – Cutting Teeth in Chamonix, Arc’teryx Blog
New Female FKT for Denali, Gripped
The Music of the Open Road, Adventure Journal
Climate Study Suggests Skiing’s Days Are Numbered, Powder
Can Western States Stop Doping in Ultra Racing?, Outside

Gear
The Case for Burly Hiking Boots, Outside
How to Quickly Make a Bow and Arrow, OutdoorLife
The Best New Tactical Gear From the 2017 Shot Show, Popular Mechanics
The 10 Coolest Adventure Rigs, Outside
The Best Scopes of 2017, Outdoor Life

Fitness/Nutrition
4 Things Top Performers Do Daily, Outside
What Two Weeks Off Exercise Really Does to Your Body, Mens Journal
How a Kiteboarding Daredevil Trains, WSJ
How a Collegiate Rodeo Athlete Trains, WSJns
Freesking, the Mental Game, MTI
Back Pain? Try Yoga, NY Times
Meditate 12 minutes. Train Harder in the Gym., NY Times
6-Step Plan to Getting Mentally Tough, Mens Journal
How To Mentally Recover from Injury, Outside
Four Things Top Performers Do Every Day, Outside – Science of Performance
Today’s Paleo Diet Looks Nothing Like What Cavemen Used to Eat, Outside – Performance Plate
Diet with a combination of high protein and high total antioxidant capacity is strongly associated with low prevalence of frailty among old Japanese women, Nutrition Journal
Music Might be Your Next Prescription Drug, Outside
10 Foods for Athletes, Outside

By Ryan Burke

Death is not something mountaineers talk about frequently.

The micro-crimp on pitch three can be debated for hours, but discussing the possibility of our own demise is pretty much off-limits. Why? Maybe it’s superstition that keeps our tongues tied or possibly we need the overconfidence that a false sense of safety provides.

There are plenty of ways to die in the mountains: avalanches, grizzly attacks, hypothermia, drowning, rockfall, etc, etc, etc. Living in Jackson Hole, I read about these incidents frequently as the paper describes in detail their final fateful decisions.

However, what I really want to know is what happened before all the drama went down. What was the first domino that lead them to their last breath?

I don’t necessarily want the details from hours before. I want to know what happened days, months, or even years prior, that brought them to that point. As mistakes that end in the mountains usually start someplace else.

Therefore, tracing my three biggest mountain mistakes back to their origins could help save my life.

Mistake #1) Starting an Instagram Account

My rational brain is horrified by my decision-making skills when a camera is present, but it’s hard to hear common sense while my inner voice loudly debates various witty hashtags for my upcoming post.

When asked what I’m thinking about while running up and down mountains, I usually fumble out a cover story of “being in the zone” and “focusing on my breath.” While the true story is that often I’m mentally editing my future Facebook post so that it will portray me as badass but not boastful.

I know I’m not alone in selectively managing how I’m perceived, but I’m not proud of it either. 

Fact is, being overly concerned with my summit selfie has gotten me into a lot of trouble. The mountains deserve respect and if my mind isn’t where my body is, my mountaineering career could come to a dramatic halt.

One example:  If I wasn’t distracted by my ego I would have called it quits after summiting the Grand Teton, but instead I thought it was a good idea to extend my day and swim across Jenny Lake. 

Barely reaching the opposite shore my mind finally stopped fantasizing about imaginary “likes” as my legs staggered to stay upright. The world suddenly went dark as I hit the ground just inshore and reality caught up to me. Stirring from my daze, I stumbled towards my bike and rode back to town, chastising myself for my social media tunnel vision.

In hindsight, my mistake wasn’t trying to capture the adventure in digital form. My mistake was that my motivation for documenting had become dangerous.

I was pursuing local celebrity status and let future glory clog present judgment. I had forgotten that the payout for finishing a goal is internal growth, not external validation.

Accolades are useless when printed on a posthumous trophy.

I sought out the “perfect post” in order to connect with others but all I found was separation from myself.

Mistake #2) Celebrating My 35th birthday

I have no major injuries and I can still outrun some of the twenty years olds at the gym, but getting older is messing with my athletic vanity.

My speckled gray beard and full-time job remind me that time is running out. Often my thoughts wonder in the direction of “if not now then when.” 

From a self-diagnosis perspective, I’m exhibiting symptoms of weekend warrior disease crossed with Peter Pan syndrome. In the back of my head, I can hear the impending doom of children’s voices restricting my climbing trips and feel the future aches that will undoubtedly stall my progression.

Rushing to fit it all in before old age arrives is anxiety-provoking and downright dangerous.

In the office on Mondays, I optimistically check five different weather websites searching for the one that tells me what I want to hear. On route, I forget that there will be a tomorrow or a next year and push forward without patience.

Somehow I keep ahead of my aging psyche and return home safely, only to be greeted by friend’s wedding and baby photos that motivate me back out the door for one more lap – always convincing myself that “the next summit” will finally fill that void that complains it isn’t satisfied.

Creeping closer to athletic irrelevancy isn’t a mistake that I could have avoided, but knowing when to pass the baton onto the next generation is a skill. It is a cruel shame that right as I’m reaching my mountaineering maturity my expiration date draws closer.

However, when I meet my maker I want to tell stories of my grandchildren’s first steps and make him blush when I retell the events of my wedding night.

By then, hopefully, I will have forgotten that route I didn’t finish or the elusive summit that was outside of my aging ability.

Mistake #3) Putting All My Identity Eggs in One Basket

Growing up on the East Coast, the word “mountaineer” was foreign to me so I never imagined the label would come to define my way of life.

There is a ton of pressure that comes with the title, mainly the expectation that danger is something you’re familiar with. At dinner parties, the conversation tends to eventually gravitate towards “my next big objective.”

If my answer doesn’t elicit a startle response, then I usually feel like I have disappointed the questioner in some way. After unintentionally adding their expectations they casually go back to their meal, where as I start to fantasize about riskier ways to put my life on the line and live up to my “mountaineer” title.

My therapist would tell me to not care about what others think of me, but the look of approval from your peers is a hard drug to kick. Status is intoxicating and the desire to please others can motivate me much further than self-congratulations.

I both love and hate being known as a mountaineer. The label sometimes influences me to take unnecessary risks because that is what I’m “suppose” to do.

Other days I’m rewarded with prestige and credibility for fulfilling my role. Most of the time the danger seems worth it, but when I witness the depth of suffering that comes from a mountain death my justifications for continuing ring hollow.

When I look in the mirror I want to see more than just a mountaineer, as centering my identity around a hobby that could easily kill me is a recipe for an early death. I once read that you should spend 10,000 hours on a skill set in order to become one of the best in your field. Well count me out, because Sunday afternoon I’m going to read a book and Monday I intend to find a way to flirt with that girl from yoga class.

Mountaineering as a lifestyle is important to me, but it is a mistake to make it my everything.

About The Author
Ryan is an accomplished mountaineer who lives in Jackson, Wy. He is a former MTI Crux Award Winner.

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By Rob Shaul

I’ve written before about MTI’s core strength programming to our “Chassis Integrity” methodology.

To review, in 2015 we abandoned our former core/midsection programming because we found while it did a great job of strengthening the midsection in isolation, it did not do an adequate job transferring that strength to the entire tactical or mountain “chassis” which extends from the shoulders to the knees.

Specifically, we found our programming build a strong lower body (legs) and midsection (core) but the “integrity” between the two areas did not follow.

This caused me to re-think our core-strength training methodology and lead to our Chassis Integrity theory.

Out were isolated ground-based core exercises like weighted sit ups, face down back extensions and EO’s and circuits completed for rounds and reps.

In were functional midsection strength exercises completed from standing or kneeling only, and completed for time to train both strength and strength endurance.

Cycle-to-cycle Chassis Integrity programming varies, but in general, if we are able to train Chassis Integrity two times per week, one day we do an “ART” circuit of three exercises and the second day we do a Low Back circuit of 3-4 low back/extension focused exercises. Both circuits are done for time – 10-20 minutes.

“ART” is an acronym for 3 types of Chassis Integrity Exercises – Anti Rotation, Rotation and Total.

On cycles were we only train Chassis Integrity once per week, we generally program a single “ARTE” circuit – which trains an Anti-Rotation, Rotation, Total and Extension core strength movement.

All the exercises for all 3 types of circuits (ART, ARTE and Low Back) are from the standing or kneeling position and all are done for time, not rounds and reps.

Below is an example of each type of circuits and further below is the exercise menu I pull from for each type of Chassis Integrity Exercise Category.

You’ll notice the extensive use of sandbag exercises in this menu. We’ve found sandbag to be incredible chassis integrity training tools.

Questions/Feedback? Email coach@mtntactical.com

ART Circuit Example:

20 Minute Grind …

5x 1-Sided Dead Lift @ 15/25# (Anti-Rotation)

5x Sandbag Keg Lift @ 40/60# (Rotation)

5x Sandbag Getup @ 40/60# (Total)

ARTE Circuit Example:

20 Minute Grind …

5x Cauldron @ 15/25# (Anti-Rotation)

10x Standing Slasher to Halo @ 12/16kg (Rotation)

5x Sandbag Toss & Chase @ 40/60# (Total)

10x Good Morning @ 55/75# (Extension)

Low Back Circuit Example:

15 Minute Grind ….

15/15 Standing Founder

10x Hinge Lift @ 65/95#

15/15 Low Back Lunge

10x Swing @ 20/24kg

CHASSIS INTEGRITY EXERCISE MENU

Total Body Chassis Integrity Exercises

Sandbag Get Up

Sandbag Toss & Chase

Power Clean + Push Press

Sandbag Clean and Push Press

Sandbag Burpee

Sandbag Squat Thrust

Sandbag Pickup and Carry

Sandbag Get Up and Run

Sandbag Clean and Run

Dumbbell/Kettlebell Snatch or Clean and Push Press

Hang Power Snatch

Rotational Chassis Integrity Exercises

Keg Lift

Med Ball Wall Slam

Band Rotation

Slasher (kneeling and standing)

Slasher-to-Halo (kneeling and standing)

Standing Russian Twist

Anti-Rotational Chassis Integrity Exercises

Cauldron

Kneeling Sandbag Halfmoon

1-Sided Dead Lift

1-Sided Barbell Walk

1-Sided Farmer’s Carry – self explanatory.

Band Press Out

Extension Exercises

Hinge Lift (light weight, high rep)

Swings (kettlebell/dumbbell)

Ab Wheel or Barbell Rollout

Standing Founder

Kneeling Founder

Low Back Lunge

Good Mornings

Learn More About Chassis Integrity Training

By Rob Shaul

The Hypertrophy Plan for Skinny Guys is one of the few plans in our history that has never warranted an update. I nailed it’s design first time out.

The goal of “hypertrophy” training is not strength gain, but increased muscle mass. In general, to get strong, you want to lift heavy, but few reps per set – 5 or less.

To build mass, you want to lift moderately heavy, but increase the reps per set to 8-15.

This plan deploys 3 set rep/schemes: 8×8 (8 sets of 8 reps), 6×10 and 4×12 – every training session. Further, the plan deploys old school “super sets” – two exercises per circuit, for example front squats and dumbbell push presses – which target two different body parts.

This makes the programming super-efficient in the weightroom and really packs in the volume in a 60 minute training session.

It builds hypertrophy for both the lower and upper body.

The plan includes a mid-week core and work capacity day on Wednesdays.

WEEKLY SCHEDULE

• Monday: Leg and Arm Hypertrophy
• Tuesday: Chest/Shoulders/Back Hypertrophy
• Wednesdays: Work Capacity/Core
• Thursday: Leg and Arm Hypertrophy
• Friday: Chest/Shoulders/Back Hypertrophy
• Saturday and Sunday: Total rest.

Who is the plan for?
I rarely, if ever, recommend the plan for mountain athletes. Often I’ll recommended it for young men already in or heading to the military who have some obvious need to add muscle – think 6-footers who weigh 160 pounds. It can also be a great plan for high school athletes – not only does it increase mass, but because of the high reps, athletes get lots of practice with the exercises.

Finally, several veteran tactical athletes who don’t really need the mass, but simply like to train body-builder style will complete the plan from time to time because they miss simply throwing iron around in the weight room. Many have repeated the plan several times.

Overall, the Hypertrophy Plan for Skinny Guys is a focused, direct, super efficient and “fun” (for meatheads) training plan on our general fitness side.

Questions?
Email coach@mtntactical.com

Here is what some of our customers said after completing the plan:

"Coach, I wanted to say nice job on Hypertrophy & Rat 6.
Started the two right after SFAS, at 150lbs. Ate everything during Hypertrophy, finished it at 165-168 depending on time of day. Ate clean, but lots of carbs through rice. Did a 1 week deload, then started Rat 6. Weights are before-after
Bench 245-275
Strict Press 135-165
Power Clean 200-225
Clean & Jerk 200-245
Front Squat 220-295
Deadlift 315-375
*I replaced squat clean with full c/j, and hinge lift with full deads.
Current weight is about 175, below 10% body fat.
Planning on doing valor again next then restarting the 3 over again in order. Thanks again coach!"

"I am one week away from completing my third military athlete program and am once again more than satisfied with the results.  To date I have completed the body weight, skinny guy and am one week away from completing the 357 plan.  I am sure you get inundated with emails so as a refresher my initial goals were to increase strength and to add some mass.  I started at 158 and am now somewhere around 174 (I am 6'1" and 32 years old); so I am headed in the correct direction. I would like to eventually get back up to a weight of 190; where I was prior to training for/running a marathon a couple of years ago.  I have also seen strength gains via the 357 plan and feel fitter and healthier overall."

"I'm excited to write this email, because this will be the second military athlete program I have completed. The first being the Afghanistan pre deployment program. I am currently on a rest day anxious for week 4 of the Hypertrophyprogram. I have been following the meal plan and eating everything I can and can tolorate. As far as protien and peanut butter I just re supplied myself with the help of friends and family in the states. I wanted to get advice from the man himself, on what workout would be beneficial to keep gaining size and overall strength and durability.  I went from 134 to 148lbs. I recently scored a 300 on a pt test here in Afghanistan about a week ago with my 2 mile time sitting surely at 11:52. I'm happy with where I'm at for running that has always been part of a weekly schedule. What program(s) though would you recommend for me, whether it be part of LEA, MA, or MA it doesnt matter to me. Im actually looking into SWAT once I leave the military this next summer. Look forward to hearing from you!"

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By Brenton Reagan

Lessons are learned from mistakes. Ironically, sometimes something as “unimportant” as a pizza can put your mission and life in danger. These are some mistakes I won’t make again/learned the hard way.

#1 Failing to Research the Route/Objective

On the East face of 12,330-foot Teewinot in the Tetons, I pressed on without my partner who was too tired to continue. 

It was early season when the snow line was at 9500 feet. 

As I reached the notch to climb onto the summit block I found that the climbing to be harder than I expected, but I could see an anchor so “I must be going the right way” – I told myself.

Upon reaching the top of the tower I realized it wasn’t the summit at all.  Teewinot is notorious for this – unbeknownst to me.

With an anchor, but no rope I would have down climb, and it was super sketchy.  I was stuck.

I went back up to the top of the false summit more than a few times to look for other options but found none. 

So I finally worked up the “courage” to pull through the tough down climbing moves.

Prior to the attempt, I had not asked anyone for any information on the route or conditions.  I just thought I knew which one was the summit. 

I had no partner and no rope and after taking a long time to down climb from the tower I raced down the East Face in a hurry to get down before a major snowfield re-froze. 

I also had no crampons – so crossing a steep, frozen snowfield in just approach could lead to a terrifying steep slide ride to my death on the boulders at the bottom.

Upon returning to Jackson I told my longtime friend and mentor about my adventure and he congratulated on surviving the most dangerous route in the Tetons – the East Face of Teewinot has more accidents than any other major route in the range.

Lesson: Research unfamiliar routes and objectives prior to climbing.

#2 Watch What You Eat, Stick To Routes You Know

During a one-day Grand Traverse attempt my partner and I arrived at the Lower Saddle of the Grand Teton – the halfway point – which is at 11,650 feet.  We had a fellow guide leave some food at the hut for us.  It was pizza. 

In our fatigued and hungry state, we managed to eat all of it.  As we started the second half of the traverse towards the North Ridge of the Middle Teton we knew what had made a mistake by eating too much.

We had to slow our pace – our stomachs were upset. 

This compounded ….

We then decided we didn’t want to get out the rope for one of the upper sections because it would further slow us down so we decided to try a route we didn’t know but had “heard” might go without a rope. 

The unknown way slowed us even more and ended up using the rope anyway. 

As we were nearing the end of the Grand Traverse with only a few peaks left a thunderstorm threatened.  We were in our 13th hour of climbing.

We decided to not risk the lightning and bail back into the canyon below.  But, to do so we had to manage very firm steep snowfield with just a light axe and no crampons. 

It was some of the scariest glissading of my life. 

Lesson: Chose appropriate nutrition the mission stick with the terrain you know.

#3 Unknown Partner, Lack of Fitness, Death Calls Twice

When I got a chance in early 2002 to obtain a grant to climbing in Kazakhstan I jumped on it. 

I was the 2^nd of 2 climbers from the U.S. to get a chance to climb the 7,010 meter Khan Tengri. 

But, I had not trained much myself, nor even met the other climber – my partner for this attempt. 

We had some confusion upon the travel arrangements and he ended up 2 days ahead of me on the travel leg. 

Due to some logistical problems I was stuck at base camp, 7,000 feet, for a week longer than my partner before finally arranging a heli flight to the upper glacier. 

Altitude sickness hit me on the glacier. I got very sick and had no one around the help me out. My “partner” had been there a week already, acclimating.

Summit day came, and though weak, sick and tired, I went anyway.

Soon I fell far behind my partner and other climbing groups.

The group ahead managed to knock off an avalanche that just missed me as I was ascending the fix the ropes – Death’s call number one.

Later on the upper mountain as I was headed for the summit but was so tired a few hundred meters from the top I stopped to rest only to fall asleep!

A Russian climber woke me and encouraged me to head down before nightfall and death by exposure. – Death’s call number 2.

My “partner” had summited and was safely back down in the snow caves at high camp – unconcerned about my fate.

I was nearly killed at least 2 times if not more on that trip. 

I didn’t know anyone and hadn’t spent any time building a relationship with the only other American on the mountain. I was not fit for the climb, nor had I adjusted to the high altitude. I did not know, and could not trust my climbing partner.

Your partner(s) on a big mountain expedition like Khan Tengri is more important than the climbing objective. 

Lesson: Know, train with, and build trust with a partner prior to any expedition. Train appropriately. Don’t leave yourself at the mountain’s mercy.

About the Author: Brenton is a professional mountain guide, sponsored mountain athlete, and long-time friend and athlete at MTI. 

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Watch Rob talk about our custom made work bag for quiet professionals.

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So far Mountain Tactical Institute had over 2 million page views in the last 6 months and to our surprise once again our most read article was an opinion piece  by Rob about Unit Fitness Leaders in Law Enforcement and Fire Fighters Departments.

You can find this article below as well as  9 others of our Top 10 of best read for the last 6 months.

1. FIRST RESPONDERS: HOW COME YOU TOLERATE UNFIT POLICE AND FIRE FIGTHERS
2. PEDS FOR THE TACTICAL ATHLETE … WHY NOT?
3. NEW THEORY: GYM BASED, MULTI-MODAL ENDURANCE FOR MOUNTAIN & TACTICAL ATHLETES
4. MTI ENDORSED GEAR
5. MIT’S SEVEN DIFFERENT STRENGTH PROGRESSIONS
6. EVOLUTION OF OUR CHASSIS INTEGTRITY THEORY
7. THE ULTIMATE TACTICAL ATHLETE TRAINING SESSION
8. GRUNT PT: FITNESS INSURGENCY
9. MY BIGGEST PROGRAMMING MISTAKES
10. MTI’S MOST READ ARTICLES FROM 2016