By Rob Shaul A decade ago when I began programming for climbers I bought every book on climbing training in print, read like crazy, and tried to apply the programming other coaches described. It was a disaster. Vague terms like “power,” “power endurance,” “strength,” and “endurance” were defined around a hard to quantify measurement tool […]
By Rob Shaul BLUF MTI frequently tests progressions against each other in an effort to identify the most effective programming. In this mini-study, six experienced MTI Lab Rats were broken into two groups, and each put through a different 3-week bench press progression: (1) Classic Pyramid, and (2) Modified Big 24 Pre-and Post-study all […]
By Rob Shaul BLUF We conducted a short, 4-Week Mini-Study to test the cross transferability of two modes of endurance training: Running to Rowing, and Rowing to Running. Results found assessment improvement in both modes, but the transfer of rowing to running was twice as great. Background Does swimming make you a better runner? […]
By Rob Shaul BLUF Experienced MTI Lab Rats showed an average 4.9% strength gain over two strength exercises following MTI’s “Super Squat” strength progression for 3 weeks within a multi-modal fluid periodization training cycle. Background MTI’s “Super Squat” progression is our implementation of the famous book, “Super Squats: How to Gain 30 Pounds […]
By Rob Shaul BLUF A volume-based progression which per session dictated 240%, 300% and 360% of assessment reps realized an average 17.4% assessment improvement across three exercises – Hand Release Push Ups, In-Place Lunges and Pull Ups. Background Over the past 12 years, MTI has developed multiple bodyweight strength progressions. These were initially driven […]
By Rob Shaul BLUF We conducted a 4-Week Mini study comparing the effectiveness of two hang board dead hang duration intervals (4 seconds vs. 8 seconds) to increase finger strength assessed by a dead hang for time. Results “seem” to indicate the 8-second intervals were more effective, but they are suspect because the 4-second […]
By Rob Shaul BLUF We conducted a short, 4-Week Mini-Study to test the transferability of one mode of endurance training (step ups) to another (running). Results found assessment improvement in both modes, but the improvement in step ups was twice as great. Background Does swimming make you a better runner? Does running make […]
By Roy Wollgast BLUF We conducted a mini study to identify whether load carriage has an effect on uphill skinning speed. Athletes were asked to ski up the same slope 2 times, once with a heavy but safe pack (25 lbs) and once with a light and fast pack (10 lbs). We determined […]
By Rob Shaul, Founder My Rock Climbing Lab Rats finished their 5-Week training cycle Thursday. I described the basic outline of this cycle in a post here a week ago, and today want to focus mostly on the results. Background I narrowed the Rock Climbing intensity in this cycle to focus primarily on strength. […]
By Rob Shaul BLUF We conducted a mini-study comparing three exercise protocols to improve overhead squat mobility. Exercise Protocols: Patterning Only Exercises Flexibility Only Exercises (stretching) Combo – Patterning and Flexibility Exercises Several athletes demonstrated improved overhead squat mobility over the course of the 6-week cycle, however, no exercise protocol stood out as providing […]