Pinch Grip Correlation Investigation

By Jordan Smothermon   We’ve begun investigating the relationship between strength and strength endurance required for different types of holds in climbing. Our question was simple: does the strength endurance for one type of hold correlate to another type of hold?   Mini-Study Design In our first investigation of a small sample size, we looked […]

Read More

The Alpinist Fitness Assessment

By Rob Shaul In November 2015, I began working with two groups of alpinists on pure climbing events. I designed “event-specific” training plans for each, including initial assessments, and this started me thinking about what an “Alpinist Fitness Assessment” would look like. By “Alpinist” I’m speaking here in terms of an athlete who climbs high, […]

Read More

ATHENA STUDY: Redefining knee injury prevention Training for Adolescent Female athletes

By Jordan Smothermon   Female adolescent athletes are three times more likely, on average across all high school sports, than their male counterparts to suffer an anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) tear. The severity, cost, length of recovery, and emotional and mental toll ACL tears (and other knee injuries) take on young, developing athletes provide considerable […]

Read More