Alpine Rock Climbing Pre-Season Training Program


  • 6 weeks, 5 days/week
  • Sport-specific training: legs, lungs & core for loaded hiking
  • Also emphasizes forearm strength, grip strength, rock climbing technique
  • This training plan is one of the 190+ Plans included with an Athlete’s Subscription.


This 6-Week training plan is sport-specifically designed to prepare athletes for traditional alpine rock climbing days or trips which include a long, steep approach, trad rock climb, and walk off or rappel descent.  The plan assumes you’ll train 5 days/week for 30 total training sessions.

This programs trains your “mountain chassis” – the legs, lungs and core required for hiking up and down steep inclines under load. It also sport-specifically trains your forearm strength, grip strength, and rock climbing technique.


Required Equipment

- Rock Gym membership. Rock gym needs both bouldering and top rope areas
- 15/25# (female/male) Dumbbells
- 25# plate for Weighted Situps (You can also use your step up back pack)
- 15-18” Bench, step or box for Step Ups
- Back Pack for Step Ups

Sample Training

Obj: Strength/Climb Stamina

(1) 6 Rounds
3x Quadzilla Complex -15/25#
15x 2-leg Poor Man’s Leg Curl

Pick 4 Routes 3 V levels under your ability (a V-4 Climber would use V-1 Routes). Record your routes.

(2) 4 Rounds
Climb each route back-toback with no rest, then…
Rest 1 minute.

Rest 5 Minutes

32) 4 Rounds
Climb each route back-to-back with no rest, then…
Rest 1 minute.

Rest 5 Minutes

(4) 4 Rounds
Climb each route back-to-back with no rest, then…
Rest 1 minute.

Rest 5 minutes.

(5) 4 Rounds
Climb each route back-to-back with no rest, then…
Rest 1 minute.

Obj: Step-ups

(1) 550x Step-ups for time in 30# pack.

(2) 4 Rounds
15/15sec.Standing Founder
15/15sec. Kneeling Founder
15/15sec. Low Back Lunge
10x Face Down Back Extension

(3) 6 Rounds
5x Curl to Press @ 15/25#
10x 1-leg Calf Raise -15/25#
3/5x Pull-ups
10x Dumbbell Hinge -15/25#

(4) 3 Rounds
Lat + Pec Stretch

Obj: Climb Stamina

Warm Up:
5 Minutes easy traverse wall

Pick 3 top rope routes you can onsite climb (A 5.13 Climber would pick a 5.10 or .11 route, for example). Record your route names.

(1) For 15 minutes:

Climb your 3 routes back-toback- to-back as many times as possible,

(2) Rest 15 minutes (or, if you have a partner, they’ll do (1) above).

(3) For 15 minutes:

Climb your 3 routes back-toback- to-back as many times as possible,

(4) Rest 15 minutes (or, if you have a partner, they’ll do (1) above).
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Fitness Programming Focused on
Mission-Direct Performance

All that matters to MTI is outside performance. We are driven to continuously improve and evolve. To this end MTI is not beholden to any fitness programming methodology, equipment or exercise. We continuously research, deploy, assess and iterate our programming with an emphasis on Mission-Direct application and performance. Here is the MTI Method:

MTI begins program design with extensive research of the fitness demands of the mission, sport or event, identifies the exercises and progressions which sport-specifically meet those demands, chose end-of-cycle goals, and program backward to design the training plan.

We deploy the training plan "Lab Rats" at our Wyoming facility. Training session and cycle issues are identified and fixed as we work through the training plan.  Post cycle we assess the programming's effectiveness and efficiency. We keep the stuff that works, and fix or toss the stuff that doesn't.

Plan is published for purchase as an individual training plan and made available to our subscribers.

It doesn't stop there. We take what we learn by deploying our mountain and tactical programming with our Lab Rats, go back, re-visit, update and improve already published training plans. Several of our individual training plans are on their 4th or 5th version.

Our Stuff Works. Guaranteed.

By Rob Shaul

I received notes frequently from athletes hesitant to purchase a subscription or training plans asking me to sell them on why they should make the purchase.

While I understand the question, I’m not a salesman - so I can't put a hard sale on anyone for our programming.

I can tell them the process we go through to design our programming.

We begin with extensive research on the fitness demands of the event, identify the exercises and progressions which sport specifically meet those demands, chose end-of-cycle goals, and program backward to design the plan.

Then we test the cycle on ourselves and our lab rats here in Wyoming. We document, note what works and doesn’t work, re-assess, and make changes and modifications.

Then we publish the programming in the form of one of our plans or as part of our subscription daily training sessions for tactical and mountain athletes.
We don’t stop there - our daily programming is the “tip of the spear” for our programming evolution. We use these sessions to learn and make continuous improvement.

As we learn more and improve, we go back, and update the sport-specific training plans on the website. For example, we’re currently on Version 5 of our Ruck Based Selection Training Plan and Version 3 of our Dryland Ski Training Plan and Version 4 of our Big Game Back Country Hunting Training Plan.

We understand our programing isn’t cheap, but we believe it’s a great value. The $79 for the Ruck Based Selection Training Plan, and $39 for the Dryland Ski Training Plan reflect the, research, work, innovative theory, iteration, testing and feedback we've put in and received to make these plans effective.

All that matters for us is outside performance, and we feel strongly that Our Stuff Works in the real world.

Here’s our guarantee:

1) Individual Training Plan Purchase:
If you purchase an individual training plan, follow it as prescribed before your season/event/pft/selection, and if you don’t feel you were physically ready for your season/event/pft/selection, and/or didn’t see dramatic improvements in your early season performance, we’ll refund your money, no questions asked.

2) Athlete’s Subscription
If you purchase an Athletes’ Subscription, follow the training sessions as prescribed, and are not satisfied with the quality of the programming, notify us within 30 days of purchase, and we’ll refund your money, no questions asked.



I live in Kansas City so any mountain activities I want to do now are legitimate trips. I take one “big” trip each year which means I want to squeeze the most out of every day I’m in the mountains. My trip last year was to the North Cascades and after some self-guided training to prepare, I got worked over… hard. This year I arranged for a trip to the Bugaboos. We planned for 6 days in the mountains if the weather agreed. With the cascades still fresh in my mind I wanted to make sure I was physically prepared to get the most out of this trip. I had been using your bodyweight training program and your SSD subscription sessions for a while with good results, so I decided to try out your alpine rock climbing plan. I completed that plan and then threw in the gym based stamina plan for good measure. 

Thanks to some stellar weather, we were in the mountains for 5 days. Only our last day got rained out. The promises made in your alpine rock climbing and gym based stamina plans were delivered. Most important I think was the mental toughness. The glacier was in miserable condition which meant a lot of added distance around crevasses and that demanded my full attention for long durations. I was able to perform at the top of my game for 5 consecutive big days. My partner (a regular trail runner and ultra-marathoner) is someone I’ve climbed with on multiple occasions and he was blown away at how fast I could cover the terrain big day after big day. He was so impressed in fact that he is going to start using some of your plans for his training.

It was really exciting to see how well all the hard work in the gym translated to the trail/ridge/wall. Thank you so much for helping me get the most out of what precious time I have in the mountains. I am an SSD believer and I will be preaching the good word whenever the opportunity arises.

Regards, - L

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This Plan is one of 200+ plans included in the Athlete's Subscription.