Rock Climbing Pre-Season Training Plan

$39.00

• 6-Week, 6x day/week training plan sport-specifically designed to prepare athletes for a rock climbing trip or season.
• Focus on finger/grip/forearm strength, and climbing-specific strength, work capacity, stamina and technique
• Includes general fitness strength, endurance and chassis integrity training, but the focus of the plan is rock climbing-specific fitness and technique.
• Plan is designed to be completed in any commercial rock/bouldering gym with a general fitness training area and/or a rock gym and any commercial general fitness gym.
• This training plan is one of the 185+ Plans included with an Athlete’s Subscription.

Product Description

This 6-week training program is sport-specifically designed to prepare athletes for rock climbing or bouldering. It is designed to be completed directly before a climbing trip, or can be used as focused rock gym training.

Rock Climbing performance is primarily dependent upon finger, grip and forearm strength, as well as proper footwork and technique.

This program is primarily focused on finger, grip and forearm strength, work capacity and stamina. As well, using bouldering, it pushes an athlete’s technique progression and development, but the program’s primary focus is sport-specific, rock climbing fitness.

The plan does include some general fitness work capacity, strength training, and core strength training, but the focus on the plan is finger/grip and forearm strength and work capacity.

This is a 6-day/week training program, which gets progressively harder as you work through the plan. Training sessions are designed to be 60-70 minutes long, and the plan is designed to be completed in any rock gym which includes a general fitness area, or, a rock gym plus any commercial gym.

This is the second version of the plan, updated in March 2017.

CLIMBING FITNESS SPECIFICS
MTI’s Climbing Fitness methodology is unique in that we deploy time under tension to determine the specific climbing fitness attribute being training:

Climbing Fitness Attribute        Time Under Tension
Strength                                               Less than 1 Minute
Work Capacity                                   1-4 Minutes
Stamina                                               4+ Minutes

The climbing fitness in this training program hinges around four sport-specific training events.

1) Bouldering V-SUM
The Bouldering V-SUM pushes both rock climbing strength and technique.

Boulder for 50 minutes, completing a  minimum of 8 problems. You can  complete/attempt as many boulder roblems as you want, but you have to  complete at least 8.  Also, you can’t count the same problem more than once for your V-Sum.

For example, an athlete completes these problems in 50 minutes:

V0, V0, V1, V2, V2, V3, V2, V2, V1, V1, V2

His top 8 problems are these: V2, V2, V2, V2, V2, V3, V1, V1

His V-Sum is 2+2+2+2+2+3+1+1 = 15

The goal is to score highest V-Sum possible. Again – you have a 50 minute time limit after the warm up, and can’t repeat the same problem. Your V-Sum is computed from 8x different problems.

Take a notebook and record the date and your V-Sum.  You’ll do the V-SUM every Monday during this cycle, with the goal to increase the total every week.

(2) Bouldering 4X4’s
Bouldering 4×4’s train climbing-specific Work Capacity.

Pick 24 problems you know you can onsite. Climb the four problems, in succession, without rest, This is 1 set. After you finish the four problems, take 1 minute rest. Then repeat 3 more times, taking one minute rest between sets.

After your 4th set, you’ve completed a “group”. Rest 5 minutes, then try to get in 3 more groups.

Each group of 4X4’s is 16x boulder problems. So if you complete all 4x groups you’ll do 54x problems total.  You can change boulder problems between groups. Usually as you work into the session, you’ll get fatigued, so don’t be afraid to chose easier problems as you proceed through the session.

Stop at 60 minutes, counting the warm up. Record how many groups you get through. Our best climbers manage 4-4.5 groups, each effort. Here’s an Example: http://youtu.be/87P7MwKpqVQ

(3) Hang Board Primary Position Complex
This hang board complex trains strength while deploying interval training (beginning at 5 second hang, 10 seconds rest) and each of the four primary positions: Full Crimp, Open Hand, Half Crimp and 3-Finger Open Hand. More Here: http://mtntactical.com/exercises/hang-board-primary-position-complex/

(4) Campus Board Lock and Reach:
We use the campus board Lock and Reach  to train finger contact strength and pulling power.  More here: http://mtntactical.com/exercises/mnt3129-lock-and-reach/

(5) 2×15 Route Climbing Intervals
This cycle we use Route Climbing Intervals, or long efforts on a traverse board, to train climbing-specific stamina.

2×15 Route Climbing Intervals: Choose 3 Climbing Routes in the climbing gym, 2x at the highest level you can onsite, and 1x at a grade below. For 15 minutes, climb one after the other, only resting as needed. Rest 15 minutes while you belay your partner, then complete another 15 minute interval, climbing the same 3 routes for both intervals.

Record the routes used  the total number of routes you climb each round and the total for both rounds. Here’s an example: http://youtu.be/MqBJdaaXvOg

This training program also trains general fitness, with a focus on endurance, strength and chassis integrity (MTI’s functional mid-section training methodology).

General fitness endurance is focus not only for transfer to the rock, but to help cut weight. You’ll train endurance two ways: Running, including and assessment and hard mile repeats, and long, easy runs on Saturdays pushing to 8 miles.

Here is the training week:
Mon: Climbing Strength/Technique (V-Sum)
Tue: Climbing Strength (Hang Board Complex), Gym-based endurance, Chassis Integrity
Wed: Climb Work Capacity (Bouldering 4×4’s)
Thurs: Endurance (3-mile assessment or 1-mile repeats), Gym-Based Strength
Friday: Climbing Stamina (2×15 Route Intervals)
Saturday: Endurance – Long, easy run (6-8 miles)

COMMON QUESTIONS

What Equipment Is Required?
This training program is designed to be completed in a Rock Gym with a bouldering area and a general fitness training area (dumbbells, pull up bar) or a Rock Gym with a bouldering area and any commercial gym. It is possible to complete this program in just a Bouldering Gym with a general fitness area, or a Bouldering Gym and a commercial Gym.

The weight training in the program deploys dumbbells and a pull up bar.

The Gym-Based Endurance/Chassis Integrity Training in the plan does deploy one piece of special equipment – a sandbag. Women will need a 40# Sandbag, and Men will need a 60# sandbag. If your gym doesn’t have sandbags, make your own and take to the gym with you. You can make sandbags out of any durable duffle bags, purchase them from any equipment vendor online, or buy one from us here for $50: https://gear.mtntactical.com/collections/gear/products/sandbag.

A sandbag is an essential piece of equipment for this plan.

Finally, you’ll need a stopwatch.

My Rock Gym has a General Fitness Area and hang boards, but now campus board. Can I still do this plan?
Yes … The program includes an alternative if your gym doesn’t have a campus board.

How long should the training sessions take?
60-75 minutes, Mon-Friday. Saturday’s long runs push to 8 miles and depending upon your pace, may push to 90 minutes.

What if I can’t keep the Monday through Saturday Schedule?
Do not skip any sessions. Do your best to train 6 days per week, but If you can’t, do the sessions in their exact order. The program is progressive and you should not “skip around”. Start again where you left off.

What does 2/4x Pull ups Mean?
2x Pull Ups for Women. 4x Pull ups for men, etc.

What does 25/35# mean?
25# for Women. 35# for men, etc.

Please Explain This Circuit:

(2) 10 Rounds in Gym
5x Walking Lunge – Increase load rapidly each round until 5x is hard, but doable
3/4x Scotty Bob @ 15/25#
2/5x Pull Ups
Hip Flexor Stretch

– This is a strength circuit you’ll work through for 10 Rounds, or 10 times. You’ll do

– 5x walking lunges with dumbbells (5x each leg, 10x total), then

– 3/4x Scotty Bobs @ 15//25#, (3x women @ 15#, 4x men @ 25#), then …

– 2/5x Pull Ups, (2x Women, 5x men) then,

– Hip Flexor Stretch

This is 1 Round. Repeat 9 more times.

For the Walking Lunges above, Explain “Increase load rapidly each round until 5x is hard, but doable).

We want you to work up in loading rapidly until 5x reps of walking lunges is “hard but doable.” This is how I would likely work up:

Round   Load
1            25#
2            35#
3            45#
5            55#
6-10       65#

How Long do I hold the Hip Flexor Stretch?
15 Seconds each Leg

How Fast should I work through this circuit?
Briskly, but not frantically. The Hip Flexor stretch is designed to be “working rest” for each round.

Unfamiliar Exercises?
Go to MTI’s Exercise Page Here: http://mtntactical.com/category/exercises/

What about my diet?
We strongly recommend a strict diet as you complete this training plan. Cutting excess fat will directly improve your rock climbing performance. During this program ….

Eat This: Meat, vegetables, fruit, nuts
Drink This: Water, Coffee, Tea, a little fruit juice.

Don’t Eat: Sugar, grains (wheat, bread, rice, etc.), Beans, Dairy.
Don’t Drink: Soda, Alcohol, Milk. With the exception of fruit juice, try to avoid drinking any calories.

Note: There is no caloric restriction with this diet. Eat when your are hungry, just avoid the “don’t eat” list.

Can I see a sample of the training?
Click the “Sample Training” tab to see the entire first week of the training plan.

What if I have more questions?
Email coach@mtntactical.com

– Rob Shaul

Required Equipment

What Equipment Is Required?
This training program is designed to be completed in a Rock Gym with a bouldering area and a general fitness training area (dumbbells, pull up bar) or a Rock Gym with a bouldering area and any commercial gym. It is possible to complete this program in just a Bouldering Gym with a general fitness area, or a Bouldering Gym and a commercial Gym.


The weight training in the program deploys dumbbells and a pull up bar.


The Gym-Based Endurance/Chassis Integrity Training in the plan does deploy one piece of special equipment - a sandbag. Women will need a 40# Sandbag, and Men will need a 60# sandbag. If your gym doesn’t have sandbags, make your own and take to the gym with you. You can make sandbags out of any durable duffle bags, purchase them from any equipment vendor online, or buy one from us here for $50: https://gear.mtntactical.com/collections/gear/products/sandbag.


A sandbag is an essential piece of equipment for this plan.


Finally, you’ll need a stopwatch.


My Rock Gym has a General Fitness Area and hang boards, but now campus board. Can I still do this plan?
Yes ... The program includes an alternative if your gym doesn't have a campus board.

Sample Training

Below is the entire first week of this training plan:

**********************
MONDAY
SESSION 1
Obj: Technique/Strength

Warm up: 


For 10 minutes ....




  • 1 Minute easy traverse

  • 5x push ups

  • 10x situps


Training:


(1) V-Sum for 8 completed boulder problems.


50 minute time limit


Comments:
Boulder for 50 minutes, completing a minimum of 8 problems. You can complete/attempt as many boulder problems as you want, but you have to complete at least 8.


Also, you can't count the same problem more than once for your V-Sum.


The V-Sum is the sum of the difficulty rating for your top 8 problems.


Take a notebook and record the date and your V-Sum


*************************
TUESDAY
SESSION 2|
Obj: Climbing Strength, Gym-Based Endurance, Chassis Integrity


Warm up:
5 Minutes on Traverse Board


Training:


(1) Hang Board Primary Position Complex:




  • 5 Second Hang

  • 10 Second Rest


(2) 30 Minute Grind




  • 5x Sandbag Getups @ 40/60# (alternate shoulder each round)

  • 5x Sandbag Clean + Push Press

  • 20x Step Ups


(3) 2 Rounds




  • 50x Shoulder Hand Jobs @ 2.5#

  • Ultimate Elbow Stretch


Comments:
See the Hang Board Primary Position Complex Here: http://mtntactical.com/exercises/hang-board-primary-position-complex/


Part (2)… Grind = work briskly, not frantically. Grind though …


*************************
WEDNESDAY
SESSION 3
Obj: Climbing Work Capacity


Warm up:
5 minutes on Traverse Wall


Training:


(1) 4 Rounds




  • 4X4 Bouldering Group

  • 5 Minute Rest


Comments:
Pick 4 problems you know you can onsite.

Climb the four problems, in succession, without rest, This is 1 set.


After you finish the four problems, take 1 minute rest.


Then repeat 3 more times, taking one minute rest between sets.


After your 4th set, you've completed a "group". Rest 5 minutes, then try to get in 3 more groups.


You can change boulder problems between groups. Usually as you work into the session, you'll get fatigued, so don't be afraid to chose easier problems as you proceed through the session.


Stop at 75 minutes, counting the warm up. Aim to complete 4-4.5 Groups.


Record the number of groups you complete.


*************************


THURSDAY
SESSION 4
Obj: Endurance, Gym-Based Strength


Warm Up:


3 Rounds




  • 10x Squats

  • 10x Push Ups

  • 10x Sit Ups

  • Run 100m

  • Instep Stretch


Training:


(1) Run 3 miles for Time


RECORD FINISH TIME


(2) 10 Rounds in Gym




  • 5x Walking Lunge - Increase load rapidly each round until 5x is hard, but doable

  • 3/4x Scotty Bob @ 15/25#

  • 2/5x Pull Ups

  • Hip Flexor Stretch


Comments:
Part (2) - Work Briskly, not Frantically through this strength circuit. The goal is to work up to as heavy as possible, but still the the prescribed reps. The Stretch at the end of the circuit is your “working rest” between rounds.


*************************
FRIDAY
SESSION 5
Obj: Climbing Stamina


Warm up:
5 minutes, on Traverse Wall


Training:


(1) 2 Rounds




  • 15 minutes ….  As Many Laps as Possible on 3 Routes

  • 15 Minutes Rest


Comments:
Choose 3 Climbing Routes in the climbing gym, 2x at the highest level you can onsite, and 1x at a grade below. For 15 minutes, climb one after the other, only resting as needed. Use the same 3 routes for both rounds.

Record the routes used (you'll do this again), and also the total number of laps you get each round and the total for both rounds.


Aim to complete 10+ Routes combined for both intervals.


- You can do this top roped and alternate rounds with your top rope partner, or use an auto belay. If neither is possible, do this:


(1) 6 Rounds




  • 5 min on Traverse Wall

  • 2 Min Rest


*************************


SATURDAY


SESSION 6


Obj: Endurance


Training:


(1) Run 6 Miles at “Easy Per Mile Pace” using the MTI Running Calculator and SESSION (4)’s 3-Mile Run Assessment Time


MTI Running Calculator: http://mtntactical.com/exercises/running-calculator/

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Our Stuff Works. Guaranteed.

By Rob Shaul

I received notes frequently from athletes hesitant to purchase a subscription or training plans asking me to sell them on why they should make the purchase.

While I understand the question, I’m not a salesman - so I can't put a hard sale on anyone for our programming.

I can tell them the process we go through to design our programming.

We begin with extensive research on the fitness demands of the event, identify the exercises and progressions which sport specifically meet those demands, chose end-of-cycle goals, and program backward to design the plan.

Then we test the cycle on ourselves and our lab rats here in Wyoming. We document, note what works and doesn’t work, re-assess, and make changes and modifications.

Then we publish the programming in the form of one of our plans or as part of our subscription daily training sessions for tactical and mountain athletes.
We don’t stop there - our daily programming is the “tip of the spear” for our programming evolution. We use these sessions to learn and make continuous improvement.

As we learn more and improve, we go back, and update the sport-specific training plans on the website. For example, we’re currently on Version 5 of our Ruck Based Selection Training Plan and Version 3 of our Dryland Ski Training Plan and Version 4 of our Big Game Back Country Hunting Training Plan.

We understand our programing isn’t cheap, but we believe it’s a great value. The $79 for the Ruck Based Selection Training Plan, and $39 for the Dryland Ski Training Plan reflect the, research, work, innovative theory, iteration, testing and feedback we've put in and received to make these plans effective.

All that matters for us is outside performance, and we feel strongly that Our Stuff Works in the real world.

Here’s our guarantee:

1) Individual Training Plan Purchase:
If you purchase an individual training plan, follow it as prescribed before your season/event/pft/selection, and if you don’t feel you were physically ready for your season/event/pft/selection, and/or didn’t see dramatic improvements in your early season performance, we’ll refund your money, no questions asked.

2) Athlete’s Subscription
If you purchase an Athletes’ Subscription, follow the training sessions as prescribed, and are not satisfied with the quality of the programming, notify us within 30 days of purchase, and we’ll refund your money, no questions asked.

Questions?
Email: rob@mtntactical.com

Testimonials

Coach,  I've spent perty much all summer so far traveling every weekend climbing,  and climbing during the weekdays around here.   I've been blown away at my performance and and strength, the past two weeks I've onsited several 11c's 11d's and two 12a's and red point 12b.The 48min spent on the tech board with 25lbs the past few weeks have worked wonders,,,, it blows my mind, when I'm on a steep pumpy route and am able to hang on better than I ever have ...  I just think in my head ..... when I'm on route, this is easy with out a 25lb weight vest on.I owe it all to you guys, The training kicks ass and works so good, I swear by it.


Thanks

- M
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