Rock Climbing Pre-Season Training Plan

$39.00

• 6-Week, 6x day/week training plan sport-specifically designed to prepare athletes for a rock climbing trip or season.
• Focus on finger/grip/forearm strength, and climbing-specific strength, work capacity, stamina and technique
• Includes general fitness strength, endurance and chassis integrity training, but the focus of the plan is rock climbing-specific fitness and technique.
• Plan is designed to be completed in any commercial rock/bouldering gym with a general fitness training area and/or a rock gym and any commercial general fitness gym.
• This training plan is one of the 185+ Plans included with an Athlete’s Subscription.

Description

This 6-week training program is sport-specifically designed to prepare athletes for rock climbing or bouldering. It is designed to be completed directly before a climbing trip, or can be used as focused rock gym training.

Rock Climbing performance is primarily dependent upon finger, grip and forearm strength, as well as proper footwork and technique.

This program is primarily focused on finger, grip and forearm strength, work capacity and stamina. As well, using bouldering, it pushes an athlete’s technique progression and development, but the program’s primary focus is sport-specific, rock climbing fitness.

The plan does include some general fitness work capacity, strength training, and core strength training, but the focus on the plan is finger/grip and forearm strength and work capacity.

This is a 6-day/week training program, which gets progressively harder as you work through the plan. Training sessions are designed to be 60-70 minutes long, and the plan is designed to be completed in any rock gym which includes a general fitness area, or, a rock gym plus any commercial gym.

This is the second version of the plan, updated in March 2017.

CLIMBING FITNESS SPECIFICS
MTI’s Climbing Fitness methodology is unique in that we deploy time under tension to determine the specific climbing fitness attribute being training:

Climbing Fitness Attribute        Time Under Tension
Strength                                               Less than 1 Minute
Work Capacity                                   1-4 Minutes
Stamina                                               4+ Minutes

The climbing fitness in this training program hinges around four sport-specific training events.

1) Bouldering V-SUM
The Bouldering V-SUM pushes both rock climbing strength and technique.

Boulder for 50 minutes, completing a  minimum of 8 problems. You can  complete/attempt as many boulder roblems as you want, but you have to  complete at least 8.  Also, you can’t count the same problem more than once for your V-Sum.

For example, an athlete completes these problems in 50 minutes:

V0, V0, V1, V2, V2, V3, V2, V2, V1, V1, V2

His top 8 problems are these: V2, V2, V2, V2, V2, V3, V1, V1

His V-Sum is 2+2+2+2+2+3+1+1 = 15

The goal is to score highest V-Sum possible. Again – you have a 50 minute time limit after the warm up, and can’t repeat the same problem. Your V-Sum is computed from 8x different problems.

Take a notebook and record the date and your V-Sum.  You’ll do the V-SUM every Monday during this cycle, with the goal to increase the total every week.

(2) Bouldering 4X4’s
Bouldering 4×4’s train climbing-specific Work Capacity.

Pick 24 problems you know you can onsite. Climb the four problems, in succession, without rest, This is 1 set. After you finish the four problems, take 1 minute rest. Then repeat 3 more times, taking one minute rest between sets.

After your 4th set, you’ve completed a “group”. Rest 5 minutes, then try to get in 3 more groups.

Each group of 4X4’s is 16x boulder problems. So if you complete all 4x groups you’ll do 54x problems total.  You can change boulder problems between groups. Usually as you work into the session, you’ll get fatigued, so don’t be afraid to chose easier problems as you proceed through the session.

Stop at 60 minutes, counting the warm up. Record how many groups you get through. Our best climbers manage 4-4.5 groups, each effort. Here’s an Example: http://youtu.be/87P7MwKpqVQ

(3) Hang Board Primary Position Complex
This hang board complex trains strength while deploying interval training (beginning at 5 second hang, 10 seconds rest) and each of the four primary positions: Full Crimp, Open Hand, Half Crimp and 3-Finger Open Hand. More Here: http://mtntactical.com/exercises/hang-board-primary-position-complex/

(4) Campus Board Lock and Reach:
We use the campus board Lock and Reach  to train finger contact strength and pulling power.  More here: http://mtntactical.com/exercises/mnt3129-lock-and-reach/

(5) 2×15 Route Climbing Intervals
This cycle we use Route Climbing Intervals, or long efforts on a traverse board, to train climbing-specific stamina.

2×15 Route Climbing Intervals: Choose 3 Climbing Routes in the climbing gym, 2x at the highest level you can onsite, and 1x at a grade below. For 15 minutes, climb one after the other, only resting as needed. Rest 15 minutes while you belay your partner, then complete another 15 minute interval, climbing the same 3 routes for both intervals.

Record the routes used  the total number of routes you climb each round and the total for both rounds. Here’s an example: http://youtu.be/MqBJdaaXvOg

This training program also trains general fitness, with a focus on endurance, strength and chassis integrity (MTI’s functional mid-section training methodology).

General fitness endurance is focus not only for transfer to the rock, but to help cut weight. You’ll train endurance two ways: Running, including and assessment and hard mile repeats, and long, easy runs on Saturdays pushing to 8 miles.

Here is the training week:
Mon: Climbing Strength/Technique (V-Sum)
Tue: Climbing Strength (Hang Board Complex), Gym-based endurance, Chassis Integrity
Wed: Climb Work Capacity (Bouldering 4×4’s)
Thurs: Endurance (3-mile assessment or 1-mile repeats), Gym-Based Strength
Friday: Climbing Stamina (2×15 Route Intervals)
Saturday: Endurance – Long, easy run (6-8 miles)

COMMON QUESTIONS

What Equipment Is Required?
This training program is designed to be completed in a Rock Gym with a bouldering area and a general fitness training area (dumbbells, pull up bar) or a Rock Gym with a bouldering area and any commercial gym. It is possible to complete this program in just a Bouldering Gym with a general fitness area, or a Bouldering Gym and a commercial Gym.

The weight training in the program deploys dumbbells and a pull up bar.

The Gym-Based Endurance/Chassis Integrity Training in the plan does deploy one piece of special equipment – a sandbag. Women will need a 40# Sandbag, and Men will need a 60# sandbag. If your gym doesn’t have sandbags, make your own and take to the gym with you. You can make sandbags out of any durable duffle bags, purchase them from any equipment vendor online, or buy one from us here for $50: https://gear.mtntactical.com/collections/gear/products/sandbag.

A sandbag is an essential piece of equipment for this plan.

Finally, you’ll need a stopwatch.

My Rock Gym has a General Fitness Area and hang boards, but now campus board. Can I still do this plan?
Yes … The program includes an alternative if your gym doesn’t have a campus board.

How long should the training sessions take?
60-75 minutes, Mon-Friday. Saturday’s long runs push to 8 miles and depending upon your pace, may push to 90 minutes.

What if I can’t keep the Monday through Saturday Schedule?
Do not skip any sessions. Do your best to train 6 days per week, but If you can’t, do the sessions in their exact order. The program is progressive and you should not “skip around”. Start again where you left off.

What does 2/4x Pull ups Mean?
2x Pull Ups for Women. 4x Pull ups for men, etc.

What does 25/35# mean?
25# for Women. 35# for men, etc.

Please Explain This Circuit:

(2) 10 Rounds in Gym
5x Walking Lunge – Increase load rapidly each round until 5x is hard, but doable
3/4x Scotty Bob @ 15/25#
2/5x Pull Ups
Hip Flexor Stretch

– This is a strength circuit you’ll work through for 10 Rounds, or 10 times. You’ll do

– 5x walking lunges with dumbbells (5x each leg, 10x total), then

– 3/4x Scotty Bobs @ 15//25#, (3x women @ 15#, 4x men @ 25#), then …

– 2/5x Pull Ups, (2x Women, 5x men) then,

– Hip Flexor Stretch

This is 1 Round. Repeat 9 more times.

For the Walking Lunges above, Explain “Increase load rapidly each round until 5x is hard, but doable).

We want you to work up in loading rapidly until 5x reps of walking lunges is “hard but doable.” This is how I would likely work up:

Round   Load
1            25#
2            35#
3            45#
5            55#
6-10       65#

How Long do I hold the Hip Flexor Stretch?
15 Seconds each Leg

How Fast should I work through this circuit?
Briskly, but not frantically. The Hip Flexor stretch is designed to be “working rest” for each round.

Unfamiliar Exercises?
Go to MTI’s Exercise Page Here: http://mtntactical.com/category/exercises/

What about my diet?
We strongly recommend a strict diet as you complete this training plan. Cutting excess fat will directly improve your rock climbing performance. During this program ….

Eat This: Meat, vegetables, fruit, nuts
Drink This: Water, Coffee, Tea, a little fruit juice.

Don’t Eat: Sugar, grains (wheat, bread, rice, etc.), Beans, Dairy.
Don’t Drink: Soda, Alcohol, Milk. With the exception of fruit juice, try to avoid drinking any calories.

Note: There is no caloric restriction with this diet. Eat when your are hungry, just avoid the “don’t eat” list.

Can I see a sample of the training?
Click the “Sample Training” tab to see the entire first week of the training plan.

What if I have more questions?
Email coach@mtntactical.com

– Rob Shaul

Required Equipment

What Equipment Is Required?
This training program is designed to be completed in a Rock Gym with a bouldering area and a general fitness training area (dumbbells, pull up bar) or a Rock Gym with a bouldering area and any commercial gym. It is possible to complete this program in just a Bouldering Gym with a general fitness area, or a Bouldering Gym and a commercial Gym.


The weight training in the program deploys dumbbells and a pull up bar.


The Gym-Based Endurance/Chassis Integrity Training in the plan does deploy one piece of special equipment - a sandbag. Women will need a 40# Sandbag, and Men will need a 60# sandbag. If your gym doesn’t have sandbags, make your own and take to the gym with you. You can make sandbags out of any durable duffle bags, purchase them from any equipment vendor online, or buy one from us here for $50: https://gear.mtntactical.com/collections/gear/products/sandbag.


A sandbag is an essential piece of equipment for this plan.


Finally, you’ll need a stopwatch.


My Rock Gym has a General Fitness Area and hang boards, but now campus board. Can I still do this plan?
Yes ... The program includes an alternative if your gym doesn't have a campus board.

Sample Training

Below is the entire first week of this training plan:

**********************
MONDAY
SESSION 1
Obj: Technique/Strength

Warm up: 


For 10 minutes ....




  • 1 Minute easy traverse

  • 5x push ups

  • 10x situps


Training:


(1) V-Sum for 8 completed boulder problems.


50 minute time limit


Comments:
Boulder for 50 minutes, completing a minimum of 8 problems. You can complete/attempt as many boulder problems as you want, but you have to complete at least 8.


Also, you can't count the same problem more than once for your V-Sum.


The V-Sum is the sum of the difficulty rating for your top 8 problems.


Take a notebook and record the date and your V-Sum


*************************
TUESDAY
SESSION 2|
Obj: Climbing Strength, Gym-Based Endurance, Chassis Integrity


Warm up:
5 Minutes on Traverse Board


Training:


(1) Hang Board Primary Position Complex:




  • 5 Second Hang

  • 10 Second Rest


(2) 30 Minute Grind




  • 5x Sandbag Getups @ 40/60# (alternate shoulder each round)

  • 5x Sandbag Clean + Push Press

  • 20x Step Ups


(3) 2 Rounds




  • 50x Shoulder Hand Jobs @ 2.5#

  • Ultimate Elbow Stretch


Comments:
See the Hang Board Primary Position Complex Here: http://mtntactical.com/exercises/hang-board-primary-position-complex/


Part (2)… Grind = work briskly, not frantically. Grind though …


*************************
WEDNESDAY
SESSION 3
Obj: Climbing Work Capacity


Warm up:
5 minutes on Traverse Wall


Training:


(1) 4 Rounds




  • 4X4 Bouldering Group

  • 5 Minute Rest


Comments:
Pick 4 problems you know you can onsite.

Climb the four problems, in succession, without rest, This is 1 set.


After you finish the four problems, take 1 minute rest.


Then repeat 3 more times, taking one minute rest between sets.


After your 4th set, you've completed a "group". Rest 5 minutes, then try to get in 3 more groups.


You can change boulder problems between groups. Usually as you work into the session, you'll get fatigued, so don't be afraid to chose easier problems as you proceed through the session.


Stop at 75 minutes, counting the warm up. Aim to complete 4-4.5 Groups.


Record the number of groups you complete.


*************************


THURSDAY
SESSION 4
Obj: Endurance, Gym-Based Strength


Warm Up:


3 Rounds




  • 10x Squats

  • 10x Push Ups

  • 10x Sit Ups

  • Run 100m

  • Instep Stretch


Training:


(1) Run 3 miles for Time


RECORD FINISH TIME


(2) 10 Rounds in Gym




  • 5x Walking Lunge - Increase load rapidly each round until 5x is hard, but doable

  • 3/4x Scotty Bob @ 15/25#

  • 2/5x Pull Ups

  • Hip Flexor Stretch


Comments:
Part (2) - Work Briskly, not Frantically through this strength circuit. The goal is to work up to as heavy as possible, but still the the prescribed reps. The Stretch at the end of the circuit is your “working rest” between rounds.


*************************
FRIDAY
SESSION 5
Obj: Climbing Stamina


Warm up:
5 minutes, on Traverse Wall


Training:


(1) 2 Rounds




  • 15 minutes ….  As Many Laps as Possible on 3 Routes

  • 15 Minutes Rest


Comments:
Choose 3 Climbing Routes in the climbing gym, 2x at the highest level you can onsite, and 1x at a grade below. For 15 minutes, climb one after the other, only resting as needed. Use the same 3 routes for both rounds.

Record the routes used (you'll do this again), and also the total number of laps you get each round and the total for both rounds.


Aim to complete 10+ Routes combined for both intervals.


- You can do this top roped and alternate rounds with your top rope partner, or use an auto belay. If neither is possible, do this:


(1) 6 Rounds




  • 5 min on Traverse Wall

  • 2 Min Rest


*************************


SATURDAY


SESSION 6


Obj: Endurance


Training:


(1) Run 6 Miles at “Easy Per Mile Pace” using the MTI Running Calculator and SESSION (4)’s 3-Mile Run Assessment Time


MTI Running Calculator: http://mtntactical.com/exercises/running-calculator/

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1)  Mission Direct

Gym numbers mean nothing. All that matters is mission performance. 

To this end, MTI's fitness solutions and programming are not boxed in by convention, tradition, orthodoxy, public opinion or any other artificial constraint driven by inside or outside forces.

We begin with the raw fitness demands of the mission and build a fitness solution which directly prepares the athlete for those demands.

 

2) Fitness Solutions Built from the Ground Up

MTI's programming is not "re-tread" bodybuilding, football, CrossFit, kettlebell, strength or general fitness programming. We've built our fitness programming for mountain and tactical athletes from the ground up.

The Fluid Periodization methodology we deploy to concurrently train multiple fitness attributes is completely original and has continued to evolve and improve over the years.

Our mid-section training methodology, Chassis Integrity, is also original, as is our endurance programming, 7 strength training progressions, tactical agility, and work capacity programming.

Our mountain sports pre-season training plans, tactical PFT, selection, school, course, and fitness improvement training plans across military, LE and Fire Rescue are MTI-developed, tested and athlete-proven.

Over the years hundreds of athletes and coaches have taken our advanced programming and unit fitness leader programming courses and MTI is widely recognized within the mountain and tactical professions and fitness media as a thought leader in fitness programming for military and tactical athletes.

 

3) The MTI Method

→ Research: MTI begins program design with extensive research of the fitness demands of the mission, sport or event, identifies the exercises and progressions which sport-specifically meet those demands, chose end-of-cycle goals, and program backward to design the training plan.

→ Deploy & Assess: We deploy the training plan "Lab Rats" at our Wyoming facility. Training session and cycle issues are identified and fixed as we work through the training plan. Post cycle we assess the programming's effectiveness and efficiency. We keep the stuff that works, and fix or toss the stuff that doesn't.

→ Publish & Assess Again: Plan is published for purchase as an individual training plan and made available to our subscribers. Feedback/results are assessed.

→ Iterate: We take what we learn from lab rats and athletes, re-visit, update and improve already published training plans. Several of our individual training plans are on their 4th or 5th version.

 

4) Mission-Direct Research

MTI exists to "Improve Mountain and Tactical Athletes mission performance and keep them safe." To that end, we have developed a unique research methodology aimed at identifying real world areas of improvement and identifying immediately deployable mission-direct solutions. Click HERE to learn more about MTI's Mission-Direct Research methodology, and Here to read about just few of our research efforts.

5) Field Proven

Our stuff works. Weekly we receive unsolicited reviews of our programming and testimonials to its effectiveness.

 

6) Programming Breadth

MTI's library of 200+ sport-specific fitness plans for mountain and tactical athletes is unmatched. Resources range from specific programming for tactical special forces selections, to specific plans for climbing Rainier and Denali, to general fitness solutions such as running improvement, to post-rehab from injury.

Over the past decade, MTI has partnered with hundreds of athletes throughout their individual mountain and tactical careers, and provided fitness solutions as they face new mountain objectives, tactical schools, selections, PFTs and deployments, and came back from injury.

 

7) Worldwide Influence

Our work is not limited to US Athletes.

We've developed selection-specific training plans for Canadian, UK, Australian and German Special Forces Selections and worked with individual military personnel from Scandinavia, South, and Central America.

Canadian, Australian, UK and western European law enforcement and fire/rescue athletes have used MTI programming for mission-direct fitness.

On the mountain side, Alpinists from Japan to Slovakia have consulted with MTI and used MTI's programming to prepare for mountain objectives.

 

8) Mission Performance beyond Fitness

MTI’s exists is to improve Mission Performance for mountain and tactical athletes and keep them safe. 

This focus on “mission direct” solutions, enhancements and improvements drives our work and research and extends beyond fitness solutions to include training, leadership, gear, team culture, and safety. 

Fitness is just one area of our work.

Our non-fitness research has included tactical cultures, combat uniforms, and gore-tex performance, and effect of stress on marksmanship.

Our work on defining what it means to be a Quiet Professional has had penetrating influence and driven healthy conversations with both mountain and tactical professionals.

 

9) Direct, Honest, Clear Answers

Since 2007 we've taken and answered dozens of questions weekly from mountain and tactical athletes. We've saved these individual Q&A's and now thousands are archived on our site.

We're not salesmen, and our answers are noted for their directness, honesty, and clarity. Our stuff isn't for everyone. If we can help, we'll let you know. If we can't, we'll let you know that, too.

- Rob Shaul, Founder

 


All of the Above is Backed Up By Our Promise: Our Stuff Works. Guaranteed.


 

Our Stuff Works. Guaranteed.

By Rob Shaul

I received notes frequently from athletes hesitant to purchase a subscription or training plans asking me to sell them on why they should make the purchase.

While I understand the question, I’m not a salesman - so I can't put a hard sale on anyone for our programming.

I can tell them the process we go through to design our programming.

We begin with extensive research on the fitness demands of the event, identify the exercises and progressions which sport specifically meet those demands, chose end-of-cycle goals, and program backward to design the plan.

Then we test the cycle on ourselves and our lab rats here in Wyoming. We document, note what works and doesn’t work, re-assess, and make changes and modifications.

Then we publish the programming in the form of one of our plans or as part of our subscription daily training sessions for tactical and mountain athletes.
We don’t stop there - our daily programming is the “tip of the spear” for our programming evolution. We use these sessions to learn and make continuous improvement.

As we learn more and improve, we go back, and update the sport-specific training plans on the website. For example, we’re currently on Version 5 of our Ruck Based Selection Training Plan and Version 3 of our Dryland Ski Training Plan and Version 4 of our Big Game Back Country Hunting Training Plan.

We understand our programing isn’t cheap, but we believe it’s a great value. The $79 for the Ruck Based Selection Training Plan, and $39 for the Dryland Ski Training Plan reflect the, research, work, innovative theory, iteration, testing and feedback we've put in and received to make these plans effective.

All that matters for us is outside performance, and we feel strongly that Our Stuff Works in the real world.

Here’s our guarantee:

1) Individual Training Plan Purchase:
If you purchase an individual training plan, follow it as prescribed before your season/event/pft/selection, and if you don’t feel you were physically ready for your season/event/pft/selection, and/or didn’t see dramatic improvements in your early season performance, we’ll refund your money, no questions asked.

2) Athlete’s Subscription
If you purchase an Athletes’ Subscription, follow the training sessions as prescribed, and are not satisfied with the quality of the programming, notify us within 30 days of purchase, and we’ll refund your money, no questions asked.

Questions?
Email: rob@mtntactical.com

COMMON QUESTIONS:

Do you have any reviews or testimonials from athletes who have used your Athlete’s Subscription
Yes. Click HERE.

Is it true you guarantee your stuff works?
Yes. If you purchase an Athletes’ Subscription, follow the training sessions as prescribed, and are not satisfied with the quality of the programming, notify us within 30 days of purchase, and we’ll refund your money, no questions asked.

How is MTI programming different than CrossFit?
This is a common question. Read our answer HERE.

You have a lot of competitors. Why should I choose MTI?
MTI is driven to improve mountain and tactical athletes’ mission performance and keep them safe. This emphasis and focus on mission performance sets us apart. Read about more that sets us apart HERE.

If I purchase a plan or subscription, how do I access the programming?
All of our plans are online, accessible via username and password.
You can log in through our →Website  or Mobile App →IOS and Android.

Do you have downloadable .pdf’s of the training plans?
No. But you can print the programming, by week, from your browser. You access individual training plans online via a username and password.

Do you have a mobile app?
Yes, we do. Available for IOS and Android.

What is the difference between purchasing an individual training plan, packet of plans or an Athlete’s Subscription?

  • Plan – Like purchasing the DVD of the first Star Wars movie. You own it forever, including any updates we make to the plan.
  • Packet – Like purchasing the DVD’s of all the Star Wars movies. You own them forever, including any updates we make to the plans.
  • Athlete’s Subscription – Like subscribing to Netflix. You get access to all 200+ plan in our library, but lose access if you unsubscribe.

If I purchase an Athletes Subscription Can I cancel on my own, anytime?
Yes.

Do I have to contact MTI to cancel or can I do it myself?
You can do it yourself. Instructions HERE.

If I purchase a subscription and have questions about where to start or what plans(s) to use for my goals, will you help?
Yes. We answer dozens of training questions from athletes weekly. Email coach@mtntactical.com.

If you add new plans or update existing plans after I subscribe will I have access to them?
Yes. We are continuously adding training plans and packets (2-5/month) and updating plans. With your subscription you’ll have access to all new plans, new courses and plan updates.

What Equipment is Required?
Click the “Required Equipment” tab to find out what equipment is required for the specific plan you are interested in.

Where do I find unfamiliar exercises?
See our Exercise Library HERE. The Run and Ruck Calculators are listed as exercises.

What about nutrition?
See our Nutritional Guidelines HERE.

Can I see sample training?
Click the “Sample Training” tab to see the entire first week of programming.
You are encouraged to do it before purchasing.

What if I have more questions?
Email rob@mtntactical.com

Testimonials

Coach,  I've spent perty much all summer so far traveling every weekend climbing,  and climbing during the weekdays around here.   I've been blown away at my performance and and strength, the past two weeks I've onsited several 11c's 11d's and two 12a's and red point 12b.The 48min spent on the tech board with 25lbs the past few weeks have worked wonders,,,, it blows my mind, when I'm on a steep pumpy route and am able to hang on better than I ever have ...  I just think in my head ..... when I'm on route, this is easy with out a 25lb weight vest on.I owe it all to you guys, The training kicks ass and works so good, I swear by it.


Thanks

- M
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