The Alpinist Project

By Rob Shaul There has been little research completed on mountain athletes in general, and even less on “Alpinists.” We will work to change that over two days of testing in May or early June and are naming this effort “The Alpinist Project.” We’re starting with two studies. The first study focuses on professional and […]

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Athena Study Final Review

Athena Study Final Review: Process, Final Results, and Next Steps by Jordan Smothermon In the previous report three weeks into our study, we outlined the stark risks female adolescent athletes face in suffering knee injuries, causes of these risks, and the methodology and reasoning of our Athena training program. Now, after completing 6 weeks, a […]

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Pinch Grip Correlation Investigation

Does Pinch Grip Strength Carry Over to Other Types of Grip? by Jordan Smothermon We’ve began investigating the relationship between strength and strength endurance required for different types of holds in climbing. Our questions is simple: does the strength endurance for one type of hold correlate to another type of hold? In our first investigation […]

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The Alpinist Fitness Assessment

By Rob Shaul Last November I began working with two groups of alpinists on pure climbing events. I designed “event-specific” training plans for each, including initial assessments, and this started me thinking about what a “Alpinist Fitness Assessment” would look like. By “Alpinist” I’m speaking here in terms of an athlete who climbs high, glaciated peaks […]

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Athena Study

 Redefining knee injury prevention Training for Adolescent Female athletes By Jordan Smothermon Female adolescent athletes are three times more likely, on average across all high school sports, than their male counterparts to suffer an anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) tear. The severity, cost, length of recovery, and emotional and mental toll ACL tears (and other knee […]

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