Big Wall Climbing Training Plan
$79.00
• 8 weeks, 5 days/week
• Best executed with your climbing partner
• Plan volume designed to prepare you for up to a 40-pitch objective
Description
This 8-week program is designed specifically to train athletes for a big wall climb (up to a 40-pitch objective), such as one of the classics in Yosemite. This program is climbing-fitness specific, and focused on developing your grip and forearm strength, work capacity and stamina.
You’ll train 5 days per week, Monday through Friday. The program is progressed – it gets harder – so do each session in order. Each session is designed to train a particular fitness attribute(s) needed by big wall climbers. It is best executed with a partner.
The weekly schedule is:
Monday: V-sum Assessment
Tuesday: Climb Strength
Wednesday: Work Capacity (General Fitness)
Thursday: Climb Work Capacity
Friday: Climb Stamina
Sessions will take 60 min. except for Friday’s Climb Stamina session, which starts at 60 min. (Weeks 1-2) and slowly increases duration to 2 hours (Weeks 7-8).
Required Equipment
- You’ll need a rock gym for this program which has a campus board. If it has a general fitness area, you’re covered. If not, you’ll need:- A 20” Box or bench
- 15/25# Dumbbells (female/male)
- A watch with a timer or stopwatch feature
- A climbing rope for butterfly coiling
- 5/10# dumbbells (female/male)
- An ab wheel or barbell that you can grab and roll on ground
Sample Training
SESSION 1
Obj: V-sum Assessment
Warm-up:
3 Rounds
Traverse across an open and relatively easy wall, making 25 total moves (so, your hands will use 25 holds).
5x Push-ups
10x Sit-ups
Ultimate Wrist Stretch
Training:
(1) V-SUM:
In 50 minutes, climb at least 8 unique bouldering routes.
Then add the grade of the hardest 8 problems you climbed (ex: V-0, V-5, V-4, V-2+ are grades.
You can climb more than 8 in the 50 minutes, but only add up the hardest 8 you do.
For example, let’s say you climb 9 routes of the following grades:
V-0, V-0, V-1, V-2, V2, V1, V1, V0, V-2+*
Add: 0 + 1 + 2 + 2 + 1 + 1 + 0 + 2.5* = 9.5
*Count all routes with a + or - after their number as .5 points higher (for +) or lower (for -).
*********************
SESSION 2
Obj: Climb Strength
Warm-up:
a) 3 min. Vertical wall - move and shake (simply find a vertical wall with easy holds and move around, shaking often, for 3 minutes)
b) 3 Rounds
2x Laps Campus Board - feet on
2x Offset Campus Pull-ups*
8x Air Squats
8x Sit-ups
Ultimate Wrist Stretch
Training:
(1) 3 Rounds
2x Lock and Reach - work up one rung at a time going as high as possible
10x Air Squats
Ultimate Wrist Stretch
(Repeat with other hand, including push-ups and stretch. That’s one round)
(2) 6 Rounds
Dyno Campus Board - see progression table - record finishing progression
Butterfly Coil Rope
10x Air Squats
Lat + Pec Stretch - Floor
(3) 10 Rounds
20 sec. Touch Jump Touch
20 sec. Burpees
20 sec. Rest
____________
*If you can’t do pull-ups:
5x5 sec. Shoulder Holds
10 sec. Flex hang
**********************
SESSION 3
Obj: Work Capacity
Warm-up:
3 Rounds
8x Front Squat - 45/65#
8x Push-ups
8x Sit-ups
Instep Stretch
Training:
(1) 8 Rounds
5x Renegade Man Makers - 15/25#
25x Step-ups - 20” Bench or Box
30 sec. Rest
Sprint to the rest each round!
(2) 4 Rounds
10/10/10/10 sec. 3-Limb Bridge
10x Standing Russian Twist - Bar/Bar + 15#
10x Ab Wheel Rollout
3x Campus Offset Pull-ups*
(3) 2 Rounds
Ultimate Wrist Stretch
20x Wrist Eccentrics - 5/10#
___________
*If you can’t do pull-ups:
5x5 sec. Shoulder Holds
10 sec. Flex hang
***************************
SESSION 5
Obj: Climb Stamina
Preparation:
Both partners will prepare in the following manner:
Pick 2 routes you can onsite climb 10x in 15 min. Preferably on the same rope or very nearby to minimize time lost in transition between ropes. If you don’t have a partner, use the auto belay route.
If you can, use two routes are 2 number grades below your redpoint.
Training:
(1) In 15 min:
Climb your 2 routes a total of 10 times, rotating route to route.
(2) 15 min. Rest - Partner completes (1)
(3) In 15 min:
Climb your 2 routes a total of 10 times, rotating route to route.
(4) 15 min. Rest - Partner completes (3)
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