QUESTION
Hey Rob,
I am currently in Alaska preparing to venture on a 6 week Alpine climbing (mountaineering) expedition in the Central Chugach Range. I am finished with this expedition and will be back in Seattle on the weekend of April 26th. I will begin may 25th with my summer work (rock climbing and mountaineering Instructor) with a staff training 2 day climb of Mt Rainer followed immediately by an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam. I will have approximately 3 full weeks (4 if i stretch or don't take rest days) to do everything i can to train before i begin work. My question is whether i should start one of your specific programs (if so, which one(s) would be ideal), do the last 3 weeks of one of these programs, or something else to prepare and get the most out of the short time frame before i start working. Second question is what program would i benefit most from as an in season (guiding season june-sept) training for the summer!?
Thanks for your continued help and expertise!
– S
ANSWER
We've actually built a Mountain Guide Pre-Season Training Plan (http://mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=56&&cart_ID=77) we use with our guides in preparation of the Teton's guiding season here in Jackson. Most the time I'd recommend this plan for you, but given your 6-week climbing trip in AK, I'm thinking you'll be pretty good at walking uphill under load when you return to Seattle.
What won't be fit is your sport-specific rock climbing fitness – especially for your AMGA course – you wan't to be as fit for this as possible. So I'd spend your three-weeks in Seattle focussing on finger and grip strength using our Rock Climbing Pre-Season Training Plan: http://mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=49&&cart_ID=67. This plan will put you in the rock gym training fitness and technique, but also includes general fitness work capacity and core strength training.
Good luck on your expedition, course and guiding season!
– Rob
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QUESTION
Rob
While I lived in Jackson from 2005 through 2008 I had a friend turn me on to your gym. I attended for a short time before moving. Do you remember me?
Anyway, I live in Washington state now and have done a good job of getting back in good shape. For me good shape means good shape for my job, I am a Federal Wildlife Officer. I also like to trail run, hike, xcountry/skate ski and mountain bike.
Earlier this winter I got pretty lazy and went a few months without doing too much. I decided to remedy that and get rid of the staleness of my own workouts by purchasing your Bodyweight Training Program. When I first looked at the workouts I thought no big deal. Halfway through the first session I remembered a feeling I had back when I attended your gym: fear. You scare me, sir. Your methodology is no joke. Frankly, you know how to kick my ass. And ofr taht I thank you!
So I am just now starting week 4 and wanted to know what you would suggest I do when I am finished.
I have a pull up bar (Stud Bar – bomber), rings for dips, one 26 lb kettle bell, two 35 lb KBs and a 44 pounder. I also have a home made 20 lb medicine ball and plyo box (20, 24, 30). I also have a Concept 2 rower. I am not looking to expand my equipment too much since money is a big factor. I am also not a big weights guy.
I wish I lived in Jackson as I would love to be one of your "law enforcement" lab rats. My goal with fitness is to be in great shape for the job while still getting out to enjoy the trails (hike, run, ride, ski). Which of your training programs should I tackle next? And at a minimum, what equipment should I add to my arsenal?
Hope all is well, Rob. I am very happy for you and the success of Mountain Athlete. I know you've worked hard to get where you are and have had to overcome a lot of obstacles. Kudos to you, sir! And thanks for all you do.
Yours,
– D
ANSWER
I strongly believe mountain professionals, such as yourself, must train primarily for your job, and not for recreational mountain sports. Somethings these complement each other, but sometimes not. For example, as a law enforcement officer, I believe you need solid relative strength, more mass – especially in the upper body, and solid explosive power and sprinting ability.
These fitness attributes aren't the best for your trail running, mountain biking and skate skiing – where strength is not as important, and extra mass in general, and upper body mass in particular, is just extra weight to lug around.
Moving ahead, and given your equipment limits and the coming work season, I'd recommend the Afghanistan Pre-Deployment Training Plan: http://mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=50&&cart_ID=75
Literally thousands of US Military, special forces, contractors, diplomats and NATO forces have used this plan to prepare for deployment and patrols in steep, mountainous Afghanistan. The plan will get you ready for steep uphill hiking and descending under load, but also build your upper body, core, and sprinting ability. You should have just about all the equipment required, but you'll need to build a 80 pound sandbag.
– Rob
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QUESTION
Rob, I've been using your site now for the past two seasons, it's been great. I was wondering if you could just lead me in the direction of what plans to follow during the year. Ideally I want to…
1.) Train in Oct/November for Ski Touring (Do the plans differ very heavily for downhill skiing? I tend to split my time 50/50 5 days a week and currently use the Backcountry Ski 6 week guide)
2.) Stay in the gym moderately during the winter months to keep my fitness to the best I can for ski touring. I was wondering how many days this should be happening per week and what fitness plan I should follow
3.) Train in March/April for Mountain Biking (I do enduro format kind of biking up and down 5 days a week, I currently use the 8 week mountain biking routine)
4.) Stay in the gym moderately during the summer months to keep my fitness to the best I can for uphill and downhill mountain biking. Just like during the winter, I was wondering how many days this should be happening per week and what guide I should be following.
Thanks Rob, like I said, I currently use both the 8 week plan for mountain biking and the 6 week plan for ski touring but I have nothing else that puts me in the gym during the on season for either skiing or biking.
– A
ANSWER
1) Complete the 6-Week Backcountry Ski Plan: http://mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=53&&cart_ID=25, in the six weeks directly before your season starts (or your best guess).
2) Complete 1-3x sessions/week from In-Season Ski Maintenance Training Plan: http://mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=53&&cart_ID=79, during the winter ski season. I require my FreeSki team members to train 2x week.
3) Again – start the Mountain Bike Pre-Season Training Plan: http://mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=52&&cart_ID=62, 8 weeks before your first trip/season starts. This might be a little tricky, if you're still skiing hard in March. If so, skip the strength work in the Mountain Biking Plan, and focus on the trainer work.
4) Complete 2x sessions/week from the In Season Strength Training Plan for Endurance Athletes: http://mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=51&&cart_ID=52. These sessions focus on strength maintenance for the Mountain Chassis (legs and core), and avoid high volume work in the gym.
– Rob
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QUESTION
Rob,
I'm currently exploring the different training programs offered though mtnathlete.com and am interested in the rock climbing focus. While I don't have access to a climbing gym, I do have the opportunity to construct my own facility in the basement of our new home which is currently under construction. I'm essentially looking for recommendations on the home walls that I'd need to build to be able to effectively utilize your program and optimize my climbing performance. Just as a side note, I have 10' between the floor and the open ceiling joists.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Best regards,
– R
ANSWER
All of our plans offered on the website require access to a rock gym. We use system boards and campus boards for my Lab Rats, but most athletes training remotely don't have these – you're the exception – but even my Lab Rats are spending 2-3 days in the rock gym during their cycle now.
So I don't have a good answer for you that would coincide with one of our current training plans.
In general, I'd recommend:
– One 2×8 board at 45-degrees with HIT Strips from Nicros (include the pinches)
– One 4×10 board at 15 degrees with woody holds from Metolius (we found plastic holds tear skin up pretty bad)
– One 4×8 board at 10-degrees with campus rungs. You can probably purchase 3 sizes of rungs and put them side by side on one board.
– Rob
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QUESTION
Hello,
I am planning to climb Mt. Rainier with some friends in July. I have done some backpacking in my past and climbed a few mountains, but none as intense as Rainier. I would consider myself in decent shape, but I would like to get a training program set up that would maximize my ability on the mountain. I live in a very flat area of Texas so it's difficult to actually get out on the weekends and climb with a pack.
I was looking at your training plan store, but it seemed to mainly be 6-week programs. Do you have any suggestions on training plans I should do, or something I didn't see on your website?
Thank you,
– J
ANSWER
I specifically build the Big Mountain Training Plan for peaks like Rainier: http://mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=49&&cart_ID=22
– Rob
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QUESTION
Rob,
Ive purchased a few of you reprograms and have been using them for awhile now. I generally cycle through 357, work capacity, and the ultra running preseason plan. I have also used the Afghan plan prior to a work up for some work overseas. I am planning a “fast and light” thru hike of the John Muir Trail (211 miles form Yosemite to Mt. Whitney) tentatively scheduled to start the first week of June. Just finished 357 and while I am strong I feel a bit heavy (5’10” 200lbs) and think I need to focus on my endurance (legs/lungs) in preparation for the Trail. I was thinking of doing bodyweight and running the rest of this month then completing the Afghan program just prior to hitting the trail. Am I off base here? Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work!
Semper Fi
– S
ANSWER
You're training plan is solid. Clean up your diet – 80% of bodyfat is diet related … and laying off lifting will help shed some muscle mass. I'd like you at 180-185#.
The Afghan Plan may be a little overkill for the hike, but it will get you mind right! Link: http://mtnathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=50&&cart_ID=75
– R
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QUESTION
Rob –
What program/routine/resource can you recommend for lbs loss? I work my butt off, run, lift, spin, etc. I think eat pretty good, but maintain same weight – about 225 @5’11” just can’t seem to drop the weight, would like about 190#.
Thanks
– F
ANSWER
Currently, all of our programming and training plans are performance-focused, not weight loss. From what we do have, a great kick ass plan that will keep your heart pumping, and isn't equipment-focused is the Sandbag/Weightvest/Dumbbell training plan on the military side: http://militaryathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=56&cart_ID=103
However, know that 80% of bodyfat is diet- related. Fix your diet and you'll shed pounds.
Here's our Nutritional Guideline:
6 Days a Week: Eat lean meat, vegetables, fruit, nuts, seeds, and drink water. Don't eat carbs (bread, spuds, rice) or sugar.
1 Day a Week: Cheat like a mother! Beer, pizza, ice cream – you name it! We've found you can't eat clean over the long term without cheating. We've also found the longer you stick to this diet, the less you'll "cheat" on your cheat days, and the more cheating will hurt you – i.e. stomach ache, gas, etc.
– Rob