BLUF
This systematic review examines testing methodologies for evaluating strength, endurance, flexibility, and overall physical performance in climbing. With 156 studies analyzed, the review provides a comprehensive look at the methods used to assess climbers’ abilities and highlights the most reliable and valid tests. The results highlight simple, sport-specific movement patterns associated with testing and progressing climbing-specific fitness traits.
Research Methods
Study Selection:
- The researchers screened 156 studies that used physical performance testing in climbing.
- Studies were included based on relevance to diagnostic testing, validity, and reliability in the context of climbing.
Categories of Testing:
- Strength Tests: Evaluated grip strength, finger strength, and upper body power.
- Endurance Tests: Focused on climbing-specific aerobic and anaerobic endurance.
- Flexibility Tests: Measured flexibility, particularly in the hip and shoulder, critical for reaching and body positioning.
- Power and Rate of Force Development (RFD): Assessed explosive strength and the speed at which climbers can generate force.
Reliability and Validity Analysis:
- Each test was evaluated for reliability (consistency of results) and validity (accuracy in measuring what it’s intended to).
- Tests that showed both high reliability and validity were highlighted as best practices for climbing diagnostics.
Key Findings
The study highlighted the most reliable exercises and methodologies to test for sport-specific applications. Below are the testing findings based on climbing-specific fitness demands.
1. Grip/finger strength tests consistently showed high reliability and are essential predictors of climbing performance.
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Dynamometer Tests
- Test Method: Measure maximum grip and finger strength using a hand dynamometer.
- Use in Training:
- Baseline and Progress Tracking: Regular dynamometer tests allow climbers to monitor improvements in grip strength over time.
- Targeted Training Adjustments: Results can inform adjustments in training volume and intensity, especially for fingerboard or grip-specific workouts.
- Strength Benchmarks: Athletes can set specific goals or progressions for grip strength based on baseline data, helping to guide progress in a structured way.
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Dead Hang Test
- Test Method: Hang from a bar or fingerboard until failure, measuring time as an indicator of grip endurance.
- Use in Training:
- Grip Endurance Development: By incorporating timed dead hangs into training, climbers can directly improve grip endurance.
- Progression Over Time: Increasing hang time progressively can be a measurable way to build hand and forearm endurance, crucial for long routes.
- Varying Holds: Changing grips (e.g., open-hand, half-crimp) during training replicates the demands of varied climbing holds and increases versatility in grip strength.
2. Muscular Endurance and Lactate Threshold for extended climbing routes
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45-Degree Inclined Board Hang
- Test Method: Perform repeated hangs on a 45-degree inclined board with rest intervals for measuring forearm endurance and lactate threshold
- Use in Training:
- Interval Training for Endurance: Use the same intervals and rest periods as the test, progressively increasing the number of reps to boost stamina.
- Simulating Route Climbing: Training on the inclined board at an angle similar to overhung climbs helps improve endurance specific to steep routes.
- Monitor Lactate Tolerance: By training with short rest intervals, climbers can improve their ability to clear lactate, which supports sustained effort on long routes.
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Repeated Dead Hang Test
- Test Method: Perform a series of dead hangs with rest intervals, measuring time to failure or total hangs.
- Use in Training:
- Progressive Overload for Endurance: Gradually increase the duration or number of hangs to build endurance.
- Builds Resilience for Sustained Holds: Training with repeated hangs at short intervals builds resilience for climbs that require extended periods of holding onto grips.
- Endurance Circuit Training: Combine dead hangs with other grip-based exercises (e.g., campus board work) for a circuit targeting endurance.
3. Flexibility as a Climbing Performance Factor
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Hip Abduction Test
- Test Method: Measures hip range of motion, especially in abduction.
- Use in Training:
- Focused Flexibility Drills: Use results to create targeted hip abduction stretches and mobility drills, like seated butterfly stretches and hip openers.
- Warm-Up Routine: Incorporate hip mobility drills in warm-ups to improve reach and maneuverability during climbs.
- Preventive Mobility Work: Regular flexibility training can prevent tightness, improve joint health, and enhance movement range for high foot placements and wide stances on routes.
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Shoulder Mobility Test
- Test Method: Measures shoulder flexibility, focusing on abduction and external rotation.
- Use in Training:
- Targeted Shoulder Mobility Exercises: Include stretches like lat/pac stretches and shoulder dislocates to increase mobility.
- Improving Range for Reach: Better shoulder flexibility enhances reach, particularly on vertical or overhung climbs where holds are positioned far apart.
- Injury Prevention: Enhancing shoulder mobility can reduce strain and potential injury, particularly for climbers who frequently reach or twist to secure holds.
4. Rate of Force Development (RFD) for Explosive Movements
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Countermovement Pull-Up Test
- Test Method: Perform an explosive pull-up from a hanging position, measuring force and speed.
- Use in Training:
- Explosive Pull-Up Workouts: Incorporate countermovement pull-ups with added weight or resistance bands to increase upper-body explosiveness.
- Specific Dyno Training: Perform pull-ups with a release or dyno-style movements to replicate the demands of competition-style climbing.
- Monitor Power Gains: Use the test as a benchmark to track improvements in explosive upper-body strength over time.
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Medicine Ball Chest Pass or Throw
- Test Method: Perform an explosive chest throw with a medicine ball to measure total-body power.
- Use in Training:
- Power Circuit Training: Incorporate medicine ball throws into power-focused circuits to increase total-body explosive strength.
- Builds Core and Shoulder Power: Medicine ball throws engage the legs, trunk, and shoulders, important for dynamic moves on overhung terrain.
- Simulates Explosive Movements: Provides a transferable, low-risk way to improve explosive strength required for movements like dynos in climbing.
Conclusion
This review highlights the importance of a structured testing approach in climbing training, focusing on finger strength, endurance, flexibility, and explosive power. Coaches and athletes can incorporate these validated tests into their programs to track progress, tailor training, and enhance performance on the wall. By regularly assessing these key areas, climbers can optimize their physical capabilities, address weaknesses, and make data-driven adjustments to their training routines.
Source:
Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review.