BLUF (Bottom Line Up Front)
This study confirms that general aerobic capacity has no meaningful relationship to climbing-specific aerobic capacity or performance. In contrast, forearm oxidative recovery, oxygen use in the forearms during climbing, and climbing-specific VO₂peak (measured on a treadwall) were all strong predictors of red-point climbing ability. When combined, these three measures explained 67% of performance variation. The findings reinforce that a running aerobic base doesn’t translate to the demands of sport climbing.
Purpose of the Study
The researchers aimed to determine which aerobic and oxygenation-based physiological measures best predict sport climbing performance. Specifically, they compared:
- Forearm oxidative capacity (how quickly the forearm muscles recover oxygen)
- Maximal forearm deoxygenation during a climbing test
- Climbing-specific VO₂peak (treadwall test)
- General aerobic capacity (treadmill VO₂max)
They also tested whether combining significant predictors would explain more performance variance.
Subjects
- 21 male sport climbers
- Average age: 32.4 ± 6.9 years
- Climbing grade range: French 6a+ to 8a+ (IRCRA 12–24)
- Climbers self-reported their best red-point grade using the 3:3:6 method: 3 successful ascents, on 3 different routes, in the past 6 months.
Methods
Each climber completed four key assessments:
- Forearm Oxidative Capacity Index
Oxygen recovery time in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) was measured using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS). Faster recovery indicated greater local aerobic capacity. - Forearm Deoxygenation During Climbing
Measured the lowest oxygen saturation level in the forearms during a progressive treadwall climb to failure. Greater oxygen use during climbing indicated more efficient muscular performance. - Treadwall VO₂peak Test
Climbers performed an incremental climbing test to volitional exhaustion on a rotating treadwall. VO₂peak measured during this climbing-specific test served as a whole-body performance indicator in a task-specific context. - Treadmill VO₂max Test
A standard running-based VO₂max test measured general aerobic capacity. This test was used to see if typical endurance assessments relate to climbing performance.
Key Findings
- Forearm Oxygen Recovery Predicted Climbing Ability
Climbers who recovered oxygen more quickly in the forearms achieved higher red-point grades. - Forearm Oxygen Use During Climbing Was a Strong Predictor
Greater deoxygenation during the climb was associated with better performance, reflecting higher muscular oxygen extraction under fatigue. - Climbing-Specific VO₂peak Was Closely Tied to Performance
Aerobic capacity measured during the climbing-specific test significantly predicted red-point performance. - General Aerobic Capacity Did Not Predict Climbing Ability
Treadmill VO₂max showed no significant relationship to climbing performance, highlighting that general aerobic tests do not reflect climbing-specific demands. - Together, These Three Measures Explained 67% of Performance Differences
Forearm oxidative capacity, forearm deoxygenation, and treadwall VO₂peak combined accounted for the majority of variation in climbing ability between athletes.
Conclusion
Sport climbing performance depends on the body’s ability to deliver and use oxygen locally in the forearms and systemically under climbing-specific conditions. This study shows that general aerobic capacity (as measured through treadmill VO₂max) does not relate to climbing ability. Coaches and athletes should use climbing-specific tools (e.g., treadwalls) and assessments that reflect forearm endurance and task-specific aerobic stress. A running aerobic base doesn’t prepare climbers for the physiological demands of the wall.
Bibliography
Fryer, S.M., Giles, D., Garrido Palomino, I., de la O Puerta, A., & España-Romero, V. (2018). Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 32(12), 3543–3550. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000002343