QUESTION
Hi rob,
First off, your website and training have have inspired and have motivated me in ways I can’t even describe. Thank you
I am trying to get stronger. Most of all, I want to me able to do a one arm pull up, muscle ups and climb in the 5.13 range. Also, I want to be more prepared for the longer approaches in the backcountry.
I am an avid rock climber who climbs in the 5.12 range consistently. I’ve achieved this goal by very little weight training, a lot of body weight exercises and most of all, climbing 5 days a week. I have a simple understanding of Olympic lifts and I know how to use every machine in the gym. Unfortunately my rock gym doesn’t have a great fitness area, so I’m limited. Can you suggest a plan for me to purchase or any idea you have would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your time.
– N
ANSWER
You’re a little all over the place with your fitness goals. You’re gym-based goals, 1-arm pull up and muscle up, can’t help you with those, other than to say train specifically for them. I’ve seen a e-book for how to get to a 1-arm pull up, and I’m sure cross fit has a bazillion instructions on muscle ups. I haven’t messed around with this exercise.
The transfer from weight training to rock climbing performance is questionable. I learned this the hard way – especially for climbers at your level. Certainly, some of the general fitness gains you get from weight room general training will transfer to rock climbing, but how much I’m not sure. Your move up to 5.13 will be far more dictated first by technique improvement, and second by finger/grip strength. At your level, stuff get’s really sport-specific.
The transfer from gym-based work to approaches and general mountain movement is more direct – esp. the "mountain chassis" emphasis of our programming – legs, core and lungs.
I’m currently working on an Alpine Climbing Training Program, which will combine approach training with rock climbing – but haven’t quite got it finished yet. In the mean time, I’d recommend you complete our Rock Climbing Plan: http://www.mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=49&&cart_ID=67
This plan will give you some straining structure for your rock climbing improvement, as well as some great general fitness and overall conditioning work. It’s specifically designed to be completed in any rock gym with regular roped routes and a bouldering area. We’ve had great luck with it.
– Rob
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QUESTION
Hello Rob,
I am an ultratrailrunner. I run 6 days a week and approx. 80 – 130 km/week. My goals for next year are the following ultra endurance trail runs:
1-2 maart White Cliffs 100 UK 167km 1.900 m D+
13 april Trans Aubrac France 105km ?
27 juni Lavaredo Ultratrail Italy 118km 5.740 m D+
25 juli Lakeland 100 UK 167km 6.856 m D+
I ‘ve got a few questions.
I have done strength execises for the past months. But only once a week (on Mondays) and I have plans to give it a more thoroughly approach now. Therefore I have plans to enter one of your trainingprogrammes.
What do you think is an optimum base? Both running and strength exercises in week days will not work on the long term, I am afraid. On Saturdays and Sundays it should work though. I could skip one runningday in favor of an exercise day; that makes a total of 4 exercise training days.
But I see your programmes are based on 7 days. Will this match?
Which programme will suit me best? Base Fitness or Mountain Fitness.
I have a little difficulty understanding the words f.i. @ 40/60# Is there an explanation doc. for this?
Thanks en best regards,
– P
ANSWER
A couple things to consider.
First – I never tell endurance athletes strength training will improve their race performance. Too much of endurance fitness is driven by efficiency and mode-specific aerobic base. I encourage endurance athletes to strength train not for performance, but for durability.
Second, given your weekly running load, your simply not going to be able to strength train that much. Both the Base Fitness and Mountain Guide fitness programs are 4-5 days/week – too much for you, plus they are not limited to strength sessions. For example, right now the Base Fitness programming is in the middle of it’s own endurance cycle.
Instead, I’d recommend you purchase our In-Season Strength Training Plan for Endurance Athletes. These are strength-focused training sessions designed to complement but not interfere, with your weekly running work. We recommend you complete the sessions in order, and complete only 1-2 per week. Here’s the link to the plan: http://www.mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=51&&cart_ID=52
40/60# – The first loading is for women, second for men.
– Rob
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QUESTION
Rob,
I was referred to you and Mountain Athlete by A., a fellow ski instructor. I am a full time ski instructor working in Highlands at Aspen, Colorado. I have been looking into some programs to prepare for the upcoming season, as well as continuing to build the strength and endurance needed for backcountry pursuits. I am also interested in staying in shape for ice and rock climbing.
I assume that I can start the process by signing up on the site at the Base Fitness tab? Are there any other recommendations you have for continuing with the program?
Thank you,
– S
ANSWER
I’d recommend you focus on your skiing fitness now and instead of the Base Fitness sessions, purchase and complete our Backcountry Ski Plan: http://www.mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=53&&cart_ID=25
This plan is no joke, and it will give you a good dose of the intensity of our programming.
– Rob
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QUESTION
My name is C., and I am looking for a good workout plan that deals mostly with body weight. I have heard good things about your programs and was wondering if you have one that is all body weight training.
– C
ANSWER
We’ve developed a bodyweight training Plan here: http://www.mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=58&&cart_ID=72
– Rob
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QUESTION
Hi Rob,
I am about to start an intense training session. After spending the summer mountain biking, I will be focusing on building leg, core, and upper body strength while building endurance and lung capacity for big mountain freeriding. This is oriented to spending the spring (mid-February through May) in Haines. I’ll be moving back to Jackson Nov 1, and will begin training immediately.
I’ve followed your program for years, and I’m very interested in how I can incorporate Mountain Athlete into my training.
Cheers,
– C
ANSWER
Our Freeskiers are deep into their Dryland cycle now – you’re too late to start in with them.
I’d recommend our Dryland Ski Plan: http://www.mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=53&&cart_ID=24
This will help prepare you for skiing – it’s a 6-week plan and I’m assuming you’ll ski here in Jackson this winter. The resort opens around 11/28, so you’ll get 4 weeks in before the resort opens.
– Rob
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QUESTION
Rob,
Loved the bodyweight workouts. Looking to get a little more specific for the upcoming ski season. Trying to decide between the backcountry or the dryland. Only problem is that I am a stay at home dad with very little access to weight equipment. Any suggestions on a ski specific, or close to it, program that doesn’t require a gym?
Thanks for your help,
– P
Hi Pete –
Dryland Plan and skip the barbell work: http://www.mountainathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=53&&cart_ID=24
– Rob