Pinch Grip Correlation Investigation

By Jordan Smothermon   We’ve begun investigating the relationship between strength and strength endurance required for different types of holds in climbing. Our question was simple: does the strength endurance for one type of hold correlate to another type of hold?   Mini-Study Design In our first investigation of a small sample size, we looked […]

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MTI: Loaded Movement (Rucking) Deep Dive Studies

By Rob Shaul Beginning this spring, on both the Military Athlete Institute, and Mountain Athlete Institute side, we will begin a series of research studies and reports on loaded movement, or “Rucking” – in military terms. I’m calling it our “Rucking Deep Dive.” Movement under load – i.e. wearing a pack – is a key […]

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Freeski Women Dominate at Telluride

Kaki Orr and Morgan McGlashon took the top two spots on the podium at the Subaru Freeride Series in Telluride, Colorado on Sunday. With fresh snow and a field of strong skiers, conditions were ideal for a great competition. Orr, who is new to the freeski competition scene, took first place by skiing one of […]

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The Alpinist Fitness Assessment

By Rob Shaul In November 2015, I began working with two groups of alpinists on pure climbing events. I designed “event-specific” training plans for each, including initial assessments, and this started me thinking about what an “Alpinist Fitness Assessment” would look like. By “Alpinist” I’m speaking here in terms of an athlete who climbs high, […]

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Training at the Utah Olympic Park

The freeski team has been training together for their on-snow technical practice since December with Coach Rob DesLauriers, drilling technique and talking strategy. In preparation for the competition season, the team headed to the Utah Olympic Park to train on the ski jumps. “The idea is just to get them used to taking bigger airs, to understand […]

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