Alpinist Fitness Assessment Results

By Dr. Kristen Ouellett and Rob Shaul   We developed The Alpinist Project  as a physiological and fitness testing tool for high level and professional alpinists. The tests occurred over two days, with the physiological testing day 1, and Alpinist Fitness Assessment on Day 2. Five athletes were tested; four men and one woman. Two […]

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Ruck Deep Dive Study Update

By Rob Shaul Our Ruck Deep Dive work has continued this past month. We’ve conduced VO2 Max tests unloaded, and loaded (45 pounds and 60 pounds) with five lab rats and have some very preliminary findings based on this limited, non-scientific work: Athletes with high aerobic fitness do well on short, hard event Athletes with […]

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The Alpinist Project

By Rob Shaul There has been little research completed on mountain athletes in general and even less on “Alpinists.” We will work to change that over two days of testing in May or early June and are naming this effort “The Alpinist Project.” We’re starting with two studies. The first study focuses on professional and […]

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Pinch Grip Correlation Investigation

By Jordan Smothermon   We’ve begun investigating the relationship between strength and strength endurance required for different types of holds in climbing. Our question was simple: does the strength endurance for one type of hold correlate to another type of hold? In our first investigation of a small sample size, we looked at whether or […]

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The Alpinist Fitness Assessment

By Rob Shaul Last November I began working with two groups of alpinists on pure climbing events. I designed “event-specific” training plans for each, including initial assessments, and this started me thinking about what a “Alpinist Fitness Assessment” would look like. By “Alpinist” I’m speaking here in terms of an athlete who climbs high, glaciated peaks […]

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ATHENA STUDY: Redefining knee injury prevention Training for Adolescent Female athletes

By Jordan Smothermon   Female adolescent athletes are three times more likely, on average across all high school sports, than their male counterparts to suffer an anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) tear. The severity, cost, length of recovery, and emotional and mental toll ACL tears (and other knee injuries) take on young, developing athletes provide considerable […]

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